Guide to Aland Islands

The Åland Islands in the Baltic Sea are known for their extensive maritime history, relatively warm and sunny weather compared to the rest of the region, and popular outdoor activities. Although the islands are part of Finland, they form a self-governing autonomous territory. The islands' approximately 30,000 inhabitants (2021) mostly speak a local dialect of Swedish.

Åland is divided into 15 municipalities and one city, Mariehamn. Most municipalities consist of an island group and the surrounding archipelago. A few are located on Fasta Åland ("mainland Åland"), a group of larger islands connected by bridges.

• Mariehamn – the capital of Åland
• Eckerö – ferry port in the west, with the historic post and customs house
• Finström – includes Godby, Åland's second-largest settlement after Mariehamn
• Geta – known for its hills, gorges and caves
• Hammarland
• Jomala – location of Mariehamn Airport and Åland's oldest church
• Lemland
• Lumparland – site of Långnäs Harbour, an important transport hub
• Saltvik
• Sund – location of Kastelholm Castle and the Bomarsund fortifications

Archipelago municipalities:

• Brändö – bordering the northern part of the Archipelago Sea in Finland Proper
• Föglö – known for fishing and maritime traditions
• Kumlinge
• Kökar – island municipality in the southeast, on a historic shipping route; monastery ruins
• Sottunga – Finland's smallest municipality, with about 100 inhabitants
• Vårdö – connected to mainland Åland by road

• Kobba Klintar — island with an old pilots station. Transfer boat from Pommern ship to the island in the summers.
• Lågskär — lighthouse island out in the Baltic Sea, popular among ornithologists. Tours from Mariehamn.
• Märket — lighthouse island in the Sea of Åland, on the border to Sweden. Tours from Eckerö.

The Åland Islands (pronounced ohland) are an autonomous region of Finland. They gained extensive autonomy under a League of Nations decision in 1921, which settled a dispute between Sweden and Finland. Åland has its own parliament.

Swedish is the sole official language, and Finnish is less widely spoken, especially outside Mariehamn.

The archipelago consists of about 80 inhabited islands and roughly 6,000 smaller islands and skerries. Most residents live on the main islands, known as Fasta Åland, which include the capital Mariehamn. The main islands are connected by bridges or cable ferry. In local usage, "the archipelago" refers only to the more remote islands beyond Fasta Åland.

Outside Mariehamn, what appears to be a town on the map may actually be a village of only a few buildings at a crossroads. Services can be limited, especially away from the main islands. In winter, many guesthouses, cottage villages and attractions are closed, and opportunities for winter sports are limited.

Seafaring has long shaped Åland's economy and identity. In the late 19th and early 20th centuries the islands had an extensive fleet of ships compared to the population, and many captain's and shipowner's mansions from that period remain. As steamships replaced sailing vessels elsewhere, Åland shipowners continued operating large sailing fleets. The best-known shipowner, Gustaf Erikson, owned a majority of the world's remaining ocean-going sailing ships in the 1930s.

Åland has been demilitarized since the Crimean War. Finland retained this status after independence. Ålanders are exempt from Finland's mandatory military service, and Åland promotes itself internationally as the "Islands of Peace".

When Finland joined the European Union in 1995, Åland retained its exemption from the EU VAT area. This special status helps support the islands' ferry industry. Two of the companies involved in this trade, Viking Line and Eckerö Line, are based in Åland.

Renewable energy plays an important role in Åland. Wind power is widespread on the islands, and solar energy is increasingly common.

The islands are officially monolingually Swedish. Finnish is taught in schools as an optional subject. Tourism is important, and many visitors come from mainland Finland, so staff in the tourism industry often speak at least some Finnish.

English is widely spoken, including by many older residents, and is usually the best alternative if you do not speak Swedish. Signs are sometimes bilingual in Swedish and English or Swedish and Finnish.

Åland is part of the Schengen Area, but not of the EU VAT union, so some items require customs clearance. If coming from abroad, pets need their passport and documented rabies and tapeworm treatment.

Åland has ferry and air connections with the rest of Finland and with Sweden. Ferries call at Mariehamn, Eckerö or Långnäs, the last little but a ferry pier. Most ferries are cruise ships on their way between the two countries (see Baltic Sea ferries). In severe weather or ice conditions, ferries may occasionally omit their scheduled call at Åland or use a different Åland port. Affected passengers are normally provided with alternative arrangements.

Ferries from Finland

• Turku–Mariehamn/Långnäs – Viking Line and Tallink Silja sail from Turku to Mariehamn or Långnäs. Local bus route 1 serves the ferry terminals. Coaches and trains from Helsinki and Tampere connect with the ferries. Services run every morning and evening.
• Naantali–Långnäs – Finnlines sails between Naantali and Långnäs. Day sailings accept foot passengers outside the summer season. Night sailings may require passengers to travel with a vehicle.
• Helsinki–Mariehamn – Viking Line and Tallink Silja sail from Helsinki to Mariehamn. The terminals are near the Market Square on opposite sides of the bay. Services depart in the afternoon and arrive in Mariehamn overnight.

Ferries from Sweden

• Stockholm–Mariehamn/Långnäs – The main ferry route between Sweden and Åland. Viking Line and Tallink Silja operate multiple daily sailings from Stockholm to Mariehamn and Långnäs, with most continuing to Turku, Helsinki or Tallinn.
• Grisslehamn–Eckerö – The shortest ferry crossing between Sweden and Åland. Eckerölinjen operates up to three daily sailings between Grisslehamn (Norrtälje) and Eckerö, taking about two hours. Buses connect Grisslehamn with Stockholm and Uppsala, and Eckerö with Mariehamn.
• Kapellskär–Långnäs – An alternative route from the Stockholm region. Finnlines and Tallink Silja sail between Kapellskär (Norrtälje) and Långnäs. Finnlines may require a vehicle on overnight sailings. Buses connect Stockholm with Kapellskär via Norrtälje centre.

Archipelago ferries

Ålandstrafiken ferries are free for foot passengers. Vehicle fares can be expensive, particularly for travellers who do not spend at least one night in the archipelago.

On many routes, motorists must spend a night in the archipelago to avoid a thoroughfare (the higher fare charged for travelling directly across the route network). Vehicle fares for large vehicles, motorhomes, caravans and trailers can be substantial.

Consecutive ferry bookings on some routes may require an overnight stay.

• Vuosnainen–Åva – Ålandstrafiken's Norra linjen (Northern Line) sails between Vuosnainen (Swedish: Osnäs) in Kustavi and Åva in Brändö, with onward connections via Torsholma and Hummelvik to mainland Åland. Seasonal public transport links Turku with Vuosnainen.
• Galtby–Kökar – Ålandstrafiken's Södra linjen (Southern Line) sails between Galtby in Korpo and Kökar, with onward connections via Sottunga and Föglö to Långnäs. Bus services connect Turku with Galtby.
• Houtskär/Iniö–Torsholma – Ferries connect Houtskär (Näsby or Roslax) and Iniö (Norrby or Kannvik) with Torsholma in Brändö via several smaller islands. Services operate a few times weekly and require booking by the previous day. Travel is free for foot passengers. Bus services connect Turku with Näsby, while Kannvik is accessible from Kustavi and, in summer, Houtskär (see Archipelago Trail).

Parking is available at major ferry terminals for travellers continuing on foot, by bicycle or by bus. Bus routes 4 and 5 connect Hummelvik and Långnäs with Mariehamn.

By plane

• Mariehamn Airport is Åland's only airport with scheduled service. There are daily flights from Helsinki Vantaa Airport, Turku and Stockholm Arlanda Airport.
• Kumlinge airstrip in the archipelago municipality of Kumlinge can be used for private aircraft.

By bike

Most cruise ferries charge extra for bicycles. Cyclists usually board via the vehicle deck and should secure their bikes during the crossing.

Ålandstrafiken ferries generally carry bicycles. Bicycle transport on archipelago routes is inexpensive, although journeys to mainland Åland without an overnight stay cost more.

Some services between Houtskär, Iniö and Brändö also carry bicycles. Advance booking is usually required.

By small craft

In favourable weather, any seaworthy boat can cross the Sea of Åland from Sweden. From Finland there is only a short open-water crossing (Skiftet) between the archipelagos. From Gotland, an overnight passage is usually required.

Travellers arriving from Schengen countries normally require no border procedures. If you need customs clearance, you need to contact the customs in advance.

Travellers arriving from non-Schengen countries must complete immigration and customs checks.

Common arrival ports include Eckerö, Mariehamn, Kökar, Föglö, Sottunga and Brändö.

Most ferries and buses are operated by Ålandstrafiken.

By ferry

The archipelago ferries serve the archipelago throughout Åland. Foot passengers travel free of charge, while vehicle passengers must book and pay for most longer crossings. See the timetables or use the route planners.

The main lines are the north and south lines:

• Norra linjen connects the north-eastern municipalities of Vårdö, Kumlinge and Brändö. Vårdå is reached by cable ferry from Sund.
• Södra linjen connects Långnäs with Föglö, Sottunga and Kökar, with some services continuing to Galtby, Korpo.

Vehicle bookings are recommended well in advance in summer, especially around Midsummer. Vehicle fares are much lower for journeys that include a stop in the archipelago than for direct transit. In 2024, a direct crossing cost about €122 for a car, compared with about €38 when including an overnight stop.

Parking is available at Hummelvik, Långnäs and Svinö.

By bike

Cycling is a popular way to explore Åland. Many roads have cycle paths, and some ferries carry only cyclists and pedestrians. Ferry bookings may be necessary in peak season.

By car

Roads are good, distances are short and traffic is light, even in Mariehamn. Car-rental options are limited, so booking in advance is advisable. Fuel is available throughout the islands. The ferries to the archipelago are not free, so check fares and booking arrangements in advance. Traffic rules are similar to those in Finland and Sweden, except that parking on the left side of a street is prohibited.

By bus

• Viking Line operates a couple of bus services, such as the one for its Långnäs arrivals.

By taxi

Taxis can be booked through Ålands Taxi.

By boat

Boats provide access to many of the islands. There are many guest harbours, and anchoring is often possible away from settlements. You can charter a boat or hire a sea kayak. Taxi boats may also offer fishing trips and guided excursions.

Most sights outside Mariehamn have limited opening hours outside the summer season.

Pommern and the Åland Maritime Museum, at the West Harbour of Mariehamn, are Åland's most visited attractions. The four-masted Pommern recalls Åland's maritime heyday.

Kastelholm Castle in Sund is one of Finland's few medieval castles, dating from the 1380s.

Nearby, the Jan Karlsgården Open Air Museum preserves a late-19th-century farm assembled from traditional buildings from across Åland.

Vita Björn, Åland's prison until 1975, is now a museum illustrating prison life from the 18th to the 20th century.

Bomarsund Fortress is the ruin of a vast Russian fortress destroyed during the Crimean War in 1854.

In Eckerö, the Åland Hunting and Fishing Museum explores traditional life in the islands' fishing villages and displays historic hunting and fishing equipment.

The Eckerö Mail and Customs House, built in 1828, is one of Åland's most notable buildings from the Russian period.

Märket Lighthouse stands on a tiny island divided between Sweden and Finland. Boat trips are available from Eckerö in good weather.

The Franciscan monastery ruins near Kökar are among Åland's most important medieval sites.

The observation tower in Geta offers views across mainland Åland and the Bothnian Sea.

Orrdalsklint in Saltvik is Åland's highest point (129 m), with an observation tower and wide views across the archipelago.

Åland is well suited to outdoor activities such as hiking, cycling, swimming, and exploring its peaceful countryside. The right to access is more limited than in mainland Finland or Sweden because the small islands are more vulnerable to environmental wear. If you wish to camp outside designated campsites, ask for permission from the landowner. In nature reserves, be especially careful to stay on marked trails.

• Fishing
• Fishing regulations differ from those in mainland Finland. In most areas, fishing requires a permit from the owner of the waters. Many local businesses arrange fishing trips or rent boats and equipment, and can usually arrange permits and advise on suitable fishing areas. Some fishing far from privately owned islands is free for Nordic residents.
• Postvägen (Postal Route)
• The historic Postal Route dates from the 17th century and runs 65 km across Åland, from the Mail House in Eckerö to Brändöby village in Brändö. Marked by postal-horn signs, it is particularly popular for cycling. Free information about the route's history is available in Kastelholm, next to Jan Karlsgården.
• Lighthouse excursions
• Several offshore lighthouses can be visited on guided summer excursions:
• Lågskär lighthouse
• Sälskär lighthouse
• Märket lighthouse
• The Åland Birdwatching Society arranges tours to Lågskär and Sälskär. Skarpnåtö Turistanläggning in Hammarland arranges tours to Sälskär, while tours to Märket are arranged by the guest harbour in Eckerö.
• Käringsunds Viltsafari
• A wildlife safari park in Eckerö.

The official currency is the euro (€). Swedish kronor (SEK) are often accepted during the summer season, but exchange rates are usually unfavourable. Visa and Mastercard are widely accepted.

Prices are generally higher than in mainland Finland and Sweden, with many goods costing 10–50% more.

Åland is known for its apples and apple products, including juice, cider and liqueurs. Local beers are also available.

Souvenir shopping is limited. Typical souvenirs can be found in central Mariehamn, museums and some larger shops. Local handicrafts are sold in some galleries and shops, including SALT by Mariehamn's eastern harbour.

Åland issues its own stamps, which are popular with collectors and available at post offices throughout the islands. Finnish stamps are not valid.

Some food items to look for:

• Smoked flounder with potato salad and fish dishes in general.
• Svartbröd (blackbread); as the name implies the bread is almost black. It is a round and quite flat rye bread. Its most characteristic feature is the taste. Blackbread is sweet. The sweetness originates from the treacle that is added to the dough and from the manner in which the bread is baked in the oven (baking blackbread is a time-consuming procedure). Stored cool, the bread stays good for weeks, even months. It was originally used (in a less sweet version) on long fishing, hunting or seafaring expeditions.
• Åland's pancake (ålandspannkaka) is a traditional and delicious Ålandic dessert. The pancake is made from semolina porridge, flavoured with cardamom and sometimes vanilla, and is served with stewed plums (usually raspberry jam is available as an alternative) and whipped cream. It is available in somewhat every café.
• Cheese from the local ÅCA dairy is of high quality. Kastelholm cheese is particularly recommended, and works well with blackbread. Its roots can be traced back to the 16th century.
• Taffel Crisps are available in any store, both in Åland and in mainland Finland. Their potato crisps are manufactured in Åland from local potatoes. The outlet shop is by the factory in Saltvik.
• Ålands Senap in Godby produce mustard, ketchup, salad dressings etc. Their products are widely available in grocery stores.

Most restaurants are in Mariehamn. Do not expect to find fast food outlets elsewhere on the islands. Some restaurants have limited hours of service and some are not open every day. Guest houses can usually arrange dinner, but you might have to book it beforehand.

Brewery Stallhagen near Finström produces beer, offers guided tours and operates a pub. Its beers are widely available throughout Åland.

Åland Distillery near Sund produces spirits and gin using fruit grown at a local vineyard.

Peders Aplagård in Kökar produces cider.

As elsewhere in Finland, drinks with more than 5.5% alcohol are sold mainly through Alko, producers, bars and restaurants.

Hotels are concentrated in Mariehamn. Elsewhere, accommodation is mainly in guesthouses, cottages and campsites. Many rural accommodation providers also arrange activities such as fishing trips, wildlife watching and local guided tours.

Wild camping is more restricted on Åland than in most of Finland. Overnight camping outside designated campsites is generally limited to one night, and asking the landowner's permission is recommended. Campsites are available on the main islands and on several smaller islands, including Vårdö and Kökar.

Overnight camping is prohibited in nature reserves.

Åland has a distinct identity shaped by its autonomy and Swedish-speaking culture. Many residents identify primarily as Ålanders (Swedish: ålänning) is generally appreciated. Don't call them Finns.

Åland uses Finland's country code (+358) for telephone services. For landline phones, the area code is 18.

Mobile users from mainland Finland may need to enable roaming, as Elisa and DNA don't have their own networks on the islands. EU roaming generally works as elsewhere in the EU, subject to your provider's terms.

Åland has its own top-level domain (.ax), used by many local organisations.

The islands also have a separate postal service. Finnish stamps are not valid on mail posted from Åland.

Crime is rare and Åland is generally a safe destination.

Ticks are common and can carry borreliosis (Lyme disease) and tick-borne encephalitis (TBE). Check your body for ticks after spending time in vegetation, and consider TBE vaccination if you expect significant exposure.

Normal precautions apply when boating or travelling on sea ice.

At shores close to the cruise ferry routes, the water will quickly rise when the ferry approaches, and then withdraw like before a tsunami – which will follow. Stay clear.

Alcohol-related incidents occur on the cruise ferries, including sexual harassment. Do not go alone with strangers to private areas unless you are sure you can trust them (and do report any serious incidents, immediately if you can, they will be taken care of).

The hospital in Mariehamn provides 24-hour emergency care. Medical services elsewhere are limited. Patients requiring advanced critical care may be transferred to hospitals in Turku or Uppsala by helicopter.

Religion

Most Ålanders belong to the Evangelical Lutheran Church of Finland (see Finland), although membership has declined, from 95% in 1990 to 70% in 2020.

Newspapers

Åland's two main newspapers are Ålandstidningen and Nya Åland, founded in 1891 and 1981, respectively.

Radio

The county administration operates the public-service station Ålands Radio, which broadcasts local news and other programming in Swedish. The national Yle can also be heard.

Several commercial radio stations are also available, including Steel FM, Soft FM, Radio Harmonica and RIX FM.

• Archipelago Sea, the adjacent archipelago in Finland Proper.
• Stockholm, the capital city of Sweden
• Turku, the oldest city of Finland