Guide to Gambia, The

The Gambia is a small, narrow country along the length of the Gambia River in West Africa, almost completely surrounded by Senegal. Besides beaches and wildlife, The Gambia is known for the town of Juffureh, made famous by Alex Haley's Roots. It is known as the Smiling Coast. Famed for its warm winter weather, the Gambia's inland landscape provides lush river scenery and spiritual cultures.

The Gambia essentially consists of the flood plain of the Gambia River flanked by some low hills — the highest point is just 53 m above sea level, and it is less than 50 km across at its widest point.

Climate

Tropical; hot, rainy season (June to November); cooler, dry season (November to May); Natural hazards : drought (rainfall has dropped by 30% in the last 30 years).

History

Before the arrival of the Europeans, oral traditions preserved most of The Gambia's history. The Wassu Stone Circles are thought to be evidence of early settlement; however, not much is known about them. The territory of present-day The Gambia became part of the Mali Empire in the 14th century.

Historically, culturally, and linguistically tied to Senegal, The Gambia was split from its neighbour in the 18th century by European powers. Most of the region was taken over by France, but a narrow piece of land around The Gambia River was ceded to Great Britain. This small area eventually became The Gambia.

The Gambia gained its independence from the UK on 18 February 1965. A constitution was written on 24 April 1970, before being suspended in July 1994 and subsequently rewritten and approved by national referendum on 8 August 1996. It was re-established in January 1997.

The Gambia formed a short-lived federation of Senegambia with Senegal between 1982 and 1989. In 1991 the two nations signed a friendship and cooperation treaty. A military coup in 1994 overthrew the president and banned political activity, but a new 1996 constitution and presidential elections, followed by parliamentary balloting in 1997, completed a nominal return to civilian rule. Elections have continued ever since, but with government intimidation and detention of opposition leaders, they aren't completely democratic.

After ruling with an iron fist for over 20 years, during which he withdrew The Gambia from international organisations such as the Commonwealth of Nations and the International Court of Justice (ICJ), Yahya Jammeh eventually lost the election to Adama Barrow in 2016. Although Jammeh initially refused to concede defeat, Barrow escaped to Senegal, and Jammeh was eventually forced to step down and go into exile under the threat of military intervention from The Gambia's neighbours. Since coming to power, Barrow has attempted to roll back some of Jammeh's excesses, with The Gambia having since re-joined the ICJ and the Commonwealth.

National holidays

The Gambia celebrates its independence day on 18 February. This small country gained its independence in 1965. There is also the Muslim festival of Eid which is celebrated by virtually all Gambians and is a 2- to 3-day event during which up to 250,000 animals are slaughtered to provide food for the feast. It is also a time when Gambians, especially women, dress in their finest regalia and buying new dresses at up to D3,000 (Gambian dalasi).

People

A variety of ethnic groups live in The Gambia, each preserving its own language and traditions. The Mandinka ethnicity is the largest, followed by the Fula, Wolof, Jola, Serahule, Serers and the Bianunkas. The Krio people, locally known as the Aku, constitute one of the smallest ethnic minorities in The Gambia. They are descendants of the Sierra Leone Creole people and have been traditionally concentrated in the capital.

Tourist information

• Visit the Gambia tourism website

• Banjul — capital
• Basse Santa Su
• Bintang
• Brikama
• Brufut
• Gunjur
• Janjanbureh
• Juffureh
• Kartong
• Serekunda
• Tanji
• Yundum

• Bao Bolong Wetland Reserve — mixed patched of thick forest and swamp most noteworthy for its migratory birds but also home to dugongs, otters, hogs, antelope, & hippos.
• Kiang West National Park – one of the largest and most important wildlife reserves in the country.
• Kunta Kinteh Island, a remainder from the slave trade and a UNESCO World Heritage site
• Gambia River National Park – Beautiful national park below Janjanbureh. The camp is pricey, but worth the money. They will organize boat tours to see chimpanzees, baboons, monkeys, and crocodiles.

The Gambia has two sites on the UNESCO World Heritage List.

The Gambia is becoming a popular vacation destination for Northern Europeans. Therefore, many charter and holiday operators offer reasonable airfare and accommodation if desired.

Visa

Tourists from ECOWAS, Commonwealth countries and other countries not listed below, or tourists from all nations arriving in The Gambia on a charter flight may enter visa-free for up to 90 days. ECOWAS nationals may also enter with passport or Biometric ID card.

Nationals of Egypt, Austria, France, Portugal, Spain, Switzerland, Turkey, United States, Armenia, Azerbaijan, Belarus, Bosnia and Herzegovina, Czech Republic, Estonia, Georgia, Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan, Latvia, Lithuania, Moldova, Romania, Russia, Slovenia, Slovakia, Tajikistan, Turkmenistan, Ukraine and Uzbekistan need a visa to enter unless they are travelling as tourists on a charter flight.

Nationals of Kenya, Namibia, Tunisia, Uganda, Zimbabwe, China, Hong Kong, India, Japan, Macau, Myanmar, Mongolia, Thailand, Vietnam, Argentina, Brazil, Chile, Colombia, Costa Rica, El Salvador, Guatemala, Honduras, Mexico, Nicaragua, Panama, Paraguay, Peru and Uruguay may enter The Gambia visa-free for up to 90 days on the condition that they obtain an entry clearance from the Gambian Immigration prior to travel, unless they are travelling as tourists on a charter flight.

Nationals of Algeria, Angola, Burundi, Cameroon, Central African Republic, Chad, Comoros, Republic of the Congo, Democratic Republic of the Congo, Djibouti, Equatorial Guinea, Eritrea, Ethiopia, Gabon, Libya, Madagascar, Mozambique, Rwanda, Somalia, South Africa, South Sudan, Sudan, Bahamas, Haiti, Jamaica, Dominican Republic, Afghanistan, Bahrain, Iran, Iraq, Israel, Jordan, Kuwait, Lebanon, Oman, Pakistan, Palestine, Qatar, Saudi Arabia, Syria, Yemen, Timor-Leste, Indonesia, Mauritius, the Philippines, South Korea, Sri Lanka and Seychelles require a visa, and/or an entry clearance from the Gambian Immigration prior to travel.

Visas can be obtained at The Gambian High Commission in Dakar, Senegal. Single entry visas cost USD100, XOF35,000 (about USD69, so a better deal!) and multi-entry visas for a three-month period cost XOF30,000.

As of April 2023 visa for most nationalities can be obtained at Karang, the northern border with Senegal for USD100. It will be valid for three months and multiple entries. They take cash only and there are no ATM's at the border. Travelers will have their fingerprints and photograph taken.

Information about obtaining a visa on arrival is available at the website of The Gambia Immigration Department.

A list of countries whose citizens can enter without a visa is available at the website of The Gambia Tourism Board.

By plane

Banjul (BJL) is the only international airport in The Gambia. Vueling, a low-cost airline, operates regular flights to/from Barcelona (Spain) with onward connecting flights to many cities in Europe. Royal Air Maroc flies from Casablanca, Brussels Airlines from Brussels, Arik Air from Accra and Lagos, Turkish Airlines from Istanbul and Air Senegal from Dakar with onward flight to Bissau, ASKY connects Banjul with Freetown and Lomé. During the tourist season (October to April), there are regular scheduled flights direct from cities such as London, Birmingham, Manchester, Amsterdam, Frankfurt and Brussels. Charter operators include First Choice Airways, Transavia, and Arkefly.

As of April 2023 a "Development tax" of USD20 was being charged at Banjul's airport before check in.

By car

Sept-places or bush taxis run from Dakar to Gambia's border, Karag. From there you must take another Taxi to Barra and then a 30 minutes Ferry to Banjul.

It is possible use your private car to drive from Senegal to The Gambia via the border town of Amdalli (just north of Barra). The border crossing is pretty straightforward. You will need your V5 logbook. The road approaching the border from Senegal is terrible and it's easier to drive next to the road as opposed to on it. Check before you travel if it is ok to bring in a right-hand drive vehicle, as there are conflicting reports on the possibility of this (though it has been done).

By bus

There are direct GPTC buses running from Barra (a ferry ride away from Banjul) to Dakar, but these are not recommended as they are slower than the bush taxis.

By boat

It is possible to charter privately small fishing vessels from Dakar and neighboring areas; though this can be fairly expensive and slow should one not be proficient at bargaining.

By bus

• The Gambia Transportation Service Company operates buses that circulate around the main highways. There isn't a fixed schedule per se and the bus stops frequently as it makes it way across the country. Buses are generally not air conditioned and do not have bathrooms on board, so prepare accordingly.
• The first bus that leaves from Barra and heads east along the north side of the River Gambia tends to depart between 7-9AM, when 'enough' passengers get on. There is a 10-20 minute break at Farafenni before the bus continues it journey. Buses are parked next to the ferry entrance in Barra.

By taxi

There are two types of cabs: green ones (tourist cabs) and yellow ones (regular cabs). Green cabs are expensive and the price is regardless of the number of passengers. Although there is no vehicle testing system in The Gambia, these taxis must have basics such as seat belts and working indicators. Yellow taxis are much cheaper and the price depends on the number of persons in the cab. They are used mainly by locals, and in many tourist areas they are prohibited from picking up tourists. Often it is worth it to walk a little to get a yellow taxi.

Motorcycle taxis are also frequently available in the country. Try to negotiate the price beforehand and note that having luggage may also add to the cost, though you probably don't want to be carrying much luggage if you are using a motorcycle anyway.

By car

A 4WD is recommended if you plan to rent a car, since the roads often are in bad condition and only a minority is paved.

By bike

You can rent a bike from pretty much anyone that owns one at a negotiated rate. Cycling on major roads can be risky, as motorist safety is unreliable, some roads are not well-maintained, sand and steep shoulders cause road hazards, and pedestrians may walk or veer onto the open road without warning. In high traffic areas, taxis and vans often cut off cyclists to pick up travellers and the car horn may be used excessively to warn of impending passage.

By thumb

No, don't use your thumb. It is an obscene gesture in The Gambia, instead wave if you want a car to stop. As anywhere, hitching is quite risky business, so be careful with what cars you enter and never hitch at night. Also, Gambian motorists will expect you to pay for the ride, so have some cash ready.

By boat

The Gambia River is navigable the entire length of the country.

Guided tours

There are many companies that offer guided tours in The Gambia.

There are also official tourist guides that will arrange transportation and guide you. They offer a good service and you will get to travel in a small group (usually 1 to 6 persons). Beware that there are false official guides, so always meet them at their offices, around tourist resorts.

Languages spoken in The Gambia are English (the official language), Mandinka, Wolof, Fula, Sarrancule and other indigenous languages.

Most of the locals speak Wolof in the major cities, English being widely used at tourist venues.

• Abuko Nature Reserve outside the village of Lamin near Yundum, offers a good introduction to the Gambian wildlife. For instance there's monkeys, crocodiles and some 300 species of birds
• Bijilo Forest Park at Kokoli, has birds and monkeys. You can bribe the animals with peanuts for better photos.
• Makasutu Culture Forest in Brikama, is a 1000-ha reserve of mangroves, palm groves and savannahs with baboons, monkeys, birds and monitor lizards.
• Sanyang Beach, north of Gunjur, is one of the most beautiful beaches in Gambia. Public transport leaves from Serekunda and Brikama regularly, and private taxis can also be hired for day trips.

• At Kachikally Sacred Crocodile Pool in Bakau you can touch West African Nile Crocodiles.
• Four Wheel Drive Adventure. Very popular tours visiting schools, country homes, and distilleries.
• "Roots" tour to Kunta Kinteh Island. You can go there on cruise up the centre of the wide Gambia river, towards the former French trading post of Albreda and the village of Juffureh. Views of the river bank are distant. Visit the setting of Roots, an old slave trade station. Tourists are overwhelmed by locals who appear only when the boat arrives, and disappear when the boat leaves. Locals are persistent in begging for money and thrusting craft items under tourists noses. Locals insist on being paid to appear in photos. Or you go by car, e.g. with the official tourist guides on the small roads on the North Bank and sail in a pirogue from Juffareh.

Money

The Gambia uses the dalasi as its currency, denoted by the symbol "D" (ISO currency code: GMD). The dalasi is divided into 100 bututs. Banknotes come in denominations of 5, 10, 20, 50, 100 and 200 dalasis and you may find D0.25, D0.50 and D1 coins in circulation.

It is better you take CFA francs, euro or US dollars with you. If you have a Visa credit or debit card and don't use a PIN or you forgot it, then the only bank that can help you out is (the bigger) GT Bank in Banjul, which only requires your card, your passport, and your signature.

ATMs

• MasterCard and Visa can be used at any GT Bank or EcoBank ATMs to withdraw cash.
• Access Bank takes Visa cards only and can be found in Barra, Senegambia Beach and Banjul.

Souvenirs

• Kora is the main music instrument of the Mandinka tribe, and could be considered the national instrument of The Gambia. It is 21-stringed and built from a large calabash cut in half and covered with cow skin to make a resonator. It sounds like a mixture of harp and flamenco guitar. Real koras can be very expensive but small souvenir versions are also available.
• Tailor made clothes can be bought at cheap prices.
• wood carvings
• wooden masks
• African drums
• hand-woven table runners and place mats.
• Batik and tie-dye fabric.

Markets

• Benachin or Jollof rice — a traditional West African rice dish with onions, spices, tomatoes or tomato paste mixed with meat, fish or vegetables.
• Chicken Yassa — chicken boiled with onion, black pepper and lime or lemon.
• Domoda — meat stew with rice and peanut butter sauce.
• Lots and lots of peanuts, the main crop of The Gambia.

• Gambia's own beer, Julbrew is worth a try. It's made by Banjul Breweries, who also make soft drinks.
• Palm Wine is juice from palm trees that is collected and fermented. It is used as a kind of wine by the locals, and you may get a chance to try it if you go on a tour to rural The Gambia.
• Baobab juice

There are many luxury 4- and 5-star resorts along the Atlantic coastline. Further in land there are eco camps and lodges which offer basic accommodation usually in natural surroundings.

There are a number of very commonly used scams in The Gambia. If someone stops you on the street, they may tell you that they remember you from the hotel you're staying at and that they work there. They may invite you to another hotel, but this could be a scam to attempt to rob you. Also, because people are constantly looking for ways to support themselves, if they offer you assistance or directions, it may be understood that they expect some monetary compensation.

Sadly, many Gambian military have an unfavorable view of Brits (sometimes white people in general) and can be extremely racist. Expect it especially at border crossings as you will almost always be asked to pay to have your passport stamped and receive more than a few insults aimed at not only your country but also yourself when you refuse to pay. As always, do NOT pay any bribes as you're only making the problem worse, not just for tourists but the locals that are already struggling to fight the rampant corruption. Absolutely do not mention calling an embassy as this will only enrage them and start another string of abuse, as your embassy has no control over them and they hate the thought of it. If you've made friends with a Gambian they might possibly be able to help but as The Gambia is seen as one of the most repressive countries in Africa, they may be putting themselves at risk of punishment - so don't get annoyed if you're not assisted.

Scams also exist in which marijuana is offered to tourists or they are invited to come smoke in a home, only to find police waiting for a hefty bribe. A simple "Sorry, I am in a hurry" could suffice to dismiss them. But don't tell them why you are in a hurry and don't say anything else after that as this may lead to a conversation, and this could lead to unwanted attention and possibly a scam. Also remember that some Bumsters are not unemployed or young, and never fall for hardship stories. Should you feel you want to give a person some money out of sympathy or just to get rid of them it will certainly lead them to ask you for more money at a later date should you meet again. Some recommend a stern and harsh response to such requests, but this should be informed by your values and the relationship formed with the individual in question. Keep in mind that you may see this person again, and they could truly be helpful if you're in a jam or need information. Many people in tourist areas are merely 'friendly facilitators' who may hope for an exchange of favors, but are harmless. Being overly guarded could deny you an offer to join a local family for a traditional meal, or to personally meet one of the craftspeople who make the local goods for sale.

The Gambia is a great holiday destination but just keep your guard up at all times.

When swimming, be aware that the currents in the Atlantic waters can be strong. Always look out for flags on the tourist beaches indicating the level of danger on a red — yellow — green scale.

Be careful about your political opinions, as such critical opinions against the government are considered a crime.

Active homosexuals could be in extreme danger in The Gambia, subject to possible arrest or even killing.

Yellow fever vaccination is strongly recommended. Meningitis vaccination is recommended. Anti-malaria pills are also necessary. Most cases of malaria in The Gambia are contracted between June and December. Mefloquine, Doxycycline or Malarone are the medicines of choice for The Gambia, and for most of sub-Saharan Africa, because of the increasing chloroquine resistance.

It is a good idea to bring insect repellent, sunscreen and other health items from your home country since these may be hard to find in some areas.

Residents say the tap water is drinkable, but for travelers bottled or boiled water is advised, because you may get sick from the different minerals and microbes in the water.

Always ask before you take a photo of anyone. Some Gambians have certain beliefs about having their picture taken, in particular by a stranger.

• Africell is the major 4G operator in the country and sell points can be found nearly everywhere. They will ask for your passport and will sell you an activated SIM card in minutes. The connection is usually good in Banjul and Senegambia beach area. a 1 Gigabyte data card used to cost 450 dalasis as April 2023.

• Senegal is both north and south of The Gambia. There are excursions to Fathala Reserve just north of the border.