Guide to Bhutan

The Kingdom of Bhutan (Dzongkha: འབྲུག་ཡུལ་ , Druk Yul) is a small country in the Himalayas between Tibet and India. Besides the stunning natural scenery, the enduring image of the country for most visitors is the strong sense of culture and tradition that binds the kingdom and clearly distinguishes it from its larger neighbours. Bhutan is a bastion of Vajrayana Buddhism, and the profound teachings of this tradition remain well preserved and exert a strong influence in all aspects of life.

Bhutan can culturally and geographically be divided into three regions, which are further divided into 20 districts or dzongkhag (singular and plural):

• Thimphu (ཐིམ་ཕུ) – the capital city
• Jakar (བྱ་ཀར) – an administrative town in the north and the birthplace of Buddhism in Bhutan.
• Mongar (མོང་སྒར) – one of the largest towns in east Bhutan.
• Paro (སྤ་རོ་) – the location of the international airport and Taktsang Monastery.
• Punakha (སྤུ་ན་ཁ་) – a former winter capital of Bhutan. Still hosts the Monastic Body in winter.
• Phuentsholing (ཕུན་ཚོགས་གླིང་) – a town on the Indian border. The point of entry for travellers arriving by bus from Kolkata.
• Samdrup Jongkhar (བསམ་གྲུབ་ལྗོངས་མཁར་) – an administrative town in the southeast, near the Indian border.
• Trashigang (བཀྲ་ཤིས་སྒང་།) – a picturesque administrative town in the east.
• Trongsa (ཀྲོང་གསར) – a small administrative town famous for its dzong and the Tower of Trongsa.

National parks

• Jigme Dorji National Park
• Jigme Singye Wangchuck National Park
• Royal Manas National Park
• Phrumsengla National Park (Dzongkha: ཕྲུམ་སེང་རྒྱལ་ཡོང་གླིང་ག)

Wildlife sanctuaries and nature reserves

• Bumdeling Wildlife Sanctuary
• Jomotsangkha Wildlife Sanctuary

• Sakteng Wildlife Sanctuary
• Jigme Khesar Strict Nature Reserve

Official website of National Parks and Protected Areas in Bhutan is at dofps.gov.bt.

Perched high in the Himalayas, Bhutan is the world's only Vajrayana Buddhist country. Furthermore, as an initiative of the fourth king, it has developed the philosophy of Gross National Happiness, whereby development is measured using a holistic approach of well-being, not just based on gross domestic product. As part of this philosophy, all citizens receive free education and medical care.

Major sources of income for the kingdom are tourism, hydroelectric power, and agriculture.

Culturally, Bhutan is predominantly Buddhist with Dzongkha as a national language (although there are regional variations - such as Sharchopkha, the predominant language in Eastern Bhutan), and a common dress code and architectural style. Bhutanese people primarily consist of the Ngalops and Sharchops, called the Western Bhutanese and Eastern Bhutanese, and Lhotshamphas (Southern Bhutanese), a people of Nepalese origin, respectively. The Ngalops primarily consist of Bhutanese living in the western part of the country. Their culture is closely related to that of their neighbour to the north, Tibet.

The Druk is the Thunder Dragon of Tibetan and Bhutanese mythology. As the national symbol of Bhutan, it appears on the national flag holding jewels in its claws. In Dzongkha, Bhutan is called Druk Yul ("Land of Druk"), and Bhutanese leaders are called Druk Gyalpo, "Thunder Dragon Kings".

Gross National Happiness

The ideology of Gross National Happiness was the brainchild of King Jigme Singye Wangchuck who, having gained a modern education in India and the UK, realised that mere economic success did not necessarily translate into a content and happy society. Consequently, soon after his coronation in 1974, the young king began to float the idea of developing a new set of guidelines by which to govern the country. Slowly these ideas took shape, and in 1998 the GNH indicator was established. GNH stands for "Gross National Happiness" and is defined by the following four objectives: to increase economic growth and development, preserve and promote the cultural heritage, encourage sustainable use of the environment, and establish good governance. While the concept of GNH receives much international praise and is a major draw for tourists, the idea is very much in its incubation stage, and there is very little evidence of GNH in the country.

On 19 July 2011, 68 countries joined the Kingdom of Bhutan in co-sponsoring a resolution titled “Happiness: Towards a holistic approach to development,” which was adopted by consensus by the 193-member UN General Assembly. In follow up to the resolution, the Royal Government of Bhutan convened a High Level Meeting on “Happiness and Well Being: Defining a New Economic Paradigm” on 2 April 2012 at the United Nations headquarters in New York. This meeting initiated the next steps towards realizing the vision of a new wellbeing- and sustainability-based economic paradigm that effectively integrates economic, social, and environmental objectives. Bhutan continues to be a champion of the resolution and actively promotes the concept internationally.

History

The first humans probably arrived some time after the Ice Age, and little is known about Bhutan's prehistory. Historical records began with the arrival of Buddhism in the 7th century, when Guru Rinpoche (Padmasambhava) visited Bhutan and established monasteries.

In 1865, Britain and Bhutan signed the Treaty of Sinchulu, under which Bhutan would receive an annual subsidy in exchange for ceding some border land. Under British influence, a monarchy was set up in 1907; three years later, a treaty was signed whereby the British agreed not to interfere in Bhutanese internal affairs and Bhutan allowed Britain to direct its foreign affairs. This role was assumed by independent India after 1947. Two years later, a formal Indo-Bhutanese accord returned the areas of Bhutan annexed by the British, formalised the annual subsidies the country received, and defined India's responsibilities in defense and foreign relations.

Relations with its northern neighbour China are tense due to ongoing border disputes, and there are no diplomatic relations between the two countries.

In December 2006, King Jigme Singye Wangchuck transferred power to his oldest son, the Crown Prince Jigme Khesar Namgyel Wangchuck, bestowing upon him the title of the fifth Druk Gyalpo. The coronation took place in November 2008. The Fifth King was educated in Boston and Oxford and is held in high esteem throughout the country.

Climate

Bhutan's climate varies from north to south and valley to valley, mainly depending upon the elevation. In the north of Bhutan, on the borders with Tibet, the ground is perennially covered with snow. In western, central and eastern Bhutan (Ha, Paro, Thimphu, Wandue, Trongsa, Bumthang, Trashi Yangtse, Lhuntse), you will mostly experience European-like weather. Winter lasts here from November to March. Punakha is an exception as it is in a lower valley where summer is hot and winter is pleasant. Southern Bhutan bordering with India is hot and humid with a sub-tropical climate. While the monsoon significantly affects Northern India, it does not command the same influence in Bhutan. Summer months tend to be wetter with isolated showers predominantly in the evenings only. Winter is by far the driest period while spring and autumn tend to be pleasant.

There are four distinct seasons similar in their divisions to those of Western Europe. Temperatures in the far south range from 15°C in winter (December to February) to 30°C in summer (June to August). In Thimphu the range is from −2.5°C in January to 25°C in August and with a rainfall of 100 mm. In the high mountain regions the average temperature is 0°C in winter and may reach 10°C in summer, with an average of 350 mm of rain. Precipitation varies significantly with elevation and the average rainfall varies from region to region.

The best time to visit Bhutan is the spring and winter season. In the spring (March to June) the jacaranda and rhododendron trees can be seen in full bloom. In the winter (October to December) visitors get an unobstructed view of the snow-capped Himalayan range bounding Bhutan due to clear sky with little to no rain.

National holidays

Bhutanese holidays are rooted in the Drukpa Lineage of Kagyu Buddhism, the House of Wangchuck and the Tibetan calendar. Even secular holidays, however, have a measure of religious overtone, as religious choreography and blessings mark these auspicious days.

• January 2 – Winter Solstice (celebratory in Western Bhutan)
• January/February (1st day of the 12th month in Tibetan Calendar) – Traditional Day of Offerings (a day to offer food to hungry creatures – celebrated as new year in Eastern Bhutan)
• February 21–23 – Birth Anniversary of HM the Fifth King Jigme Khesar Namgyal Wangchuck
• February or March (1st day of the 1st month in Tibetan Calendar) – Bhutanese/Tibetan New Year (losar) – 21 February 2023
• May 2 – Birth Anniversary of Third king Jigme Dorji Wangchuck
• April or May (10th day of the 4th month in Tibetan Calendar) – Shabdrung Kuchoe (commemorates the passing of Shabdrung Ngawang Namgyal in 1651 CE)
• May or June (15th day of the 4th month in Tibetan Calendar) – Commemoration of Lord Buddha's Parnirvana 4 June 2023
• June or July (10th day of the 5th month in Tibetan Calendar) – Anniversary of the Birth of Guru Rinpoche 28 June 2023
• July or August (4th day of the 7th month in Tibetan Calendar) – The first sermon of Lord Buddha (turning of the Dharma wheel) 21 July 2023
• September (not fixed) – Thimphu Drubchen (Thimphu Only) – 20 September 2023
• September or October (not fixed) – Thimphu Tshechu (Thimphu Only) – 24–26 September
• September (not fixed) – Blessed Rainy Day – 24 September 2023
• September or October (1st day of the 6th month (Ashvin) in Hindi calendar) – Hindu ceremony of Dashain – 24 October 2023
• November 1 Coronation Day of His Majesty the King
• November 11 – birth anniversary of Jigme Singye Wangchuck the 4th king of Bhutan, Constitution Day
• November (22nd day of the 10th month in Tibetan Calendar) – Descending Day of Lord Buddha – 4 November 2023
• December 17 National Day, commemorating the 1907 coronation of the first hereditary king of Bhutan, Ugyen Wangchuck

In addition to the above national holidays, there are also Tshechu holidays which are celebrated regionally.

Read and watch

• Travellers and Magicians – Bhutan's first internationally acclaimed feature film was made in 2003 and showcases life in Bhutan.
• Beyond the Sky and the Earth (buy) – Jamie Zeppa writes about his experiences as a young Canadian teaching at schools in Bhutan—very entertaining and informative.
• The Raven Crown (buy) – A book by Michael Aris about the origins of the Buddhist monarchy in Bhutan.
• The Circle of Karma – an excellent novel by acclaimed local author Kunzang Choden that contains insights into the lives of Bhutanese women.

Tourist information

• Bhutan Travel website

Bhutan is a linguistically diverse country, with many languages spoken throughout the country.

Dzongkha, a member of the Tibetic language family, is the national language of the country and the mother tongue of most people residing in Western Bhutan.

In Eastern Bhutan, the major regional language is Sharchopkha (Tshangla), which derives much of its vocabulary from Classical Tibetan. The language is mostly used as a spoken language rather than a written language.

In the Bumthang region, the major regional language is Bumthangkha, which is not similar to Dzongkha.

Nepali is understood by a vast majority of Bhutanese and it is the most widely spoken Indo-Aryan language in the country.

English is widely understood by the vast majority of Bhutanese, as it is used as the medium of instruction in Bhutanese schools.

Due to the influence of Bollywood (Hindi-language cinema) and close relations with India, some Bhutanese people can also understand Hindi, but it is not as widely spoken as Nepali.

Aspects of talking in Bhutan include:

• La. The suffix 'la' is an honorific, and many Bhutanese feel that their remarks sound too harsh if it is not used, and this carries over even into English. So, don't be surprised if you hear expressions such as "Yes-la" or "I'm not sure-la". It just implies respect.
• Reach. In Bhutan, the verb 'reach' means to 'take' or 'accompany' (a person). For example: "I'll reach you to the bus station" means "I'll take/accompany you to the bus station."
• Cousin-brother, Cousin-sister. Extended families living under one roof are common in Bhutan. As a result, the dividing line between siblings and cousins is blurred, and so it is not uncommon to be introduced to a "cousin-brother" or "cousin-sister". Although these people are just cousins, the English word implies a more distant relationship than is the fact in Bhutan.
• BST. The exact meaning of this phrase is 'Bhutan Standard Time', but as Bhutanese people are notorious for being late or just not turning up at all, it has taken on the meaning of 'Bhutan Stretchable Time'. Therefore, when someone arrives late, they will often excuse themselves by saying that they are running on BST.

Bhutan has one of the most restrictive visa policies in the world, and travel to the country is highly regulated under the government's "High Value, Low Impact Tourism" scheme. In accordance with this, virtually all nationalities require a visa to enter the country, except citizens of India, Bangladesh, and the Maldives.

Visas

As of summer 2023, tourists can independently arrange transportation, accommodations, and guides—requirements for travel beyond Thimphu and Paro. Visa extensions can also be processed while in the country. The government imposes a Sustainable Development Fee (SDF) of US$100 per day on visitors from all countries except India and Bangladesh. However, the SDF is waived for a one-night stay at any of the three border entry points: Phuentsholing, Gelephu, and Samdrup Jongkhar.

Bhutan Entry Permit for Indian tourists

For citizens of India, visas are issued on entry. A photograph and a valid Passport (or Voter ID Card for Indian residents only), is required (along with a photocopy of either). Fill the document with purpose "Tourism". At land border crossings you will only get 7 days for Paro and Thimphu at a cost of ₹1,200 per night in government sustainable development fees (SDF). Extensions can be applied for at Thimphu Immigration Office.

Entry points

There are 3 points to enter into Bhutan via land: Phuentsholing (western Bhutan), Gelephu (central Bhutan, Indian and Bhutanese nationals only), Samdrup Jongkhar (eastern Bhutan). Indian nationals can spend one night at any of these three points of entry without paying SDF. However, anyone heading beyond the local check posts will be required to pay the SDF tariff (Nu1,200 for Indian nationals), reserve a hotel, and arrange for a guide. List of guides and travel companies are available at the immigration offices.

What documents are required to obtain the Entry Permit?

• Passport copy/Voter ID card + 2 photographs (you must carry originals also for verification). For children below 18 years without a valid passport, Birth Certificates and valid school ID are required to get an Entry Permit. (Both are required in the case of a school-going kid).
• A Hotel Confirmation voucher. This is to make sure that all tourists visiting Bhutan has a proper address. So book a hotel prior to your arrival and have your hotel send you a confirmation voucher before entering Bhutan.

Advance Online Permit

An online permit can be availed before entering into Bhutan, and the compulsory tour can also be arranged in advance. The online permit also mandates a passport with minimum validity of 6 months before the exact date of travel. Voter cards/ adhar cards are not accepted.

Procedure for obtaining the Entry Permit

Usually it takes around 30 minutes to get all formalities done and get your permit. You need to fill in a form, attach your photographs and submit at the first counter. Your name will be called at the next counter, once your name is called at the next counter, you need to reach there to get your picture clicked and provide fingerprints. You can collect your Entry Permit from the third counter stamped and signed. There is no charge for permits.

Validity of the Permit

Entry Permit and Special area permit is valid for a maximum of 7 days and if you want to spend more time than 7 days, you need to visit the Immigration office in Thimphu again and apply for an extension of stay. Documents required for extension: A copy of Original Entry Permit, 1 photograph.

Though there is an immigration office in Paro, but extensions are provided only at the Thimphu immigration office.

Immigration office at Thimphu for extension of your stay or getting permit for restricted areas.

Disposal of permit

At the end of the trip, you must submit the Entry Permits and extensions at the last immigration point during exit.

By plane

Paro International Airport (PBH), in the west of the country near the capital Thimphu, is the only entry point to Bhutan by air. Flag carrier Druk Air operates 2 Airbuses which fly routes to Dubai in UAE; Bangkok in Thailand; Delhi, Mumbai, Kolkata, Bodh Gaya/ Gaya, Bagdogra, Guwahati in India; Kathmandu in Nepal; Dhaka in Bangladesh and Singapore. Bhutan Airlines offers daily flights to Bangkok. For aviation enthusiasts, the approach into Paro Airport is one of the most difficult in the world due to the fact that it involves flying at low altitude through a winding, mountainous valley.

As foreigners flying into Bhutan are expected to pay almost three times the local airfare rates, many overseas nationals opt to fly into Bagdogra Airport (IXB) in Siliguri in the neighboring Indian state of West Bengal. Siliguri is a three-hour drive from the Bhutanese border town of Phuentsholing and a taxi costs around ₹2,800 to ₹3,800, depending on the quality of the vehicle and time of day, while buses to the Indian border town of Jaigaon cost around ₹200. Bagdogra receives frequent flights from major cities within India, and Druk Air operates flights from Bangkok twice a week. Flying to Siliguri, rather than Paro, is definitely an option for overseas nationals who wish to avoid the high rates charged to all foreigners (those on work permits included) who are heading to Bhutan.

By car

There are three land border crossings located along the southern border to India only. Phuntsholing in the west, Gelephu in the central region and Samdrup Jongkhar in the east. No border crossings are open along the Chinese northern border. Road permits are also required; however, these are processed by your local tour operator, along with your visa.

By bus

• From Kolkata: The Royal Bhutanese Government runs a service to Phuentsholing. These buses depart from Kolkata's Esplanade bus station at 19:00 on Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday and from the Phuentsholing Bhutan Post office at 15:00 on Monday, Wednesday and Friday. The journey takes around 18 hours and costs ₹/Nu.300. The buses are comfortable, but because much of the highway to Kolkata is like the surface of the moon, don't bank on getting much sleep on the way.
• From Siliguri: Buses depart daily at 7:30AM and 2PM from opposite Golden Plaza on Burdwan Road (behind Air View More) to Phuentsholing. Tickets are sold at a counter near the bus and the journey takes around four hours.
• From Phuentsholing: There are private buses departing from the bus station every half an hour until 16:00. Shared taxis are also available from near the bus station.

By train

There are no railways in Bhutan. The nearest options (both in India) are:

• Hasimara on the main Kolkata/Siliguri line to Assam is the nearest railway station to Phuentsholing, 17 km away. Indian Rail operated train #13149 and #4084 stop here.
• New Jalpaiguri Station (NJP) in Siliguri is a popular choice for travellers heading to Bhutan by land. There are taxis from NJP to Jaigaon (around ₹2,800 - 3,000) or there is the option of buses from Siliguri bus station. A taxi between the station and the bus station costs up to ₹180. Alternatively you can also take a train to Hasimara from Siliguri Junction (behind Siliguri Bus Station) which costs around ₹60 and takes between 3 hours (express) to 4 hours (local). See Phuentsholing on 'go next' on Siliguri article for more details. Trains from NJP should be booked ahead, as it is a popular station amongst locals. There are not any trains leaving from this station with a tourist quota.

Addresses

Bhutan does not have addresses, though streets in the bigger towns, such as Thimphu, have been designated names, which come before the suffix lam, meaning street or road. As an example, the main street in Thimphu is Norzin Lam. Monasteries are called by their specific names, followed by the word for monastery or temple in Dzongkha - Lhakhang or Goempa (Gompa). As an example, Khurjey Lhakhang is a famous monastery in Jakar.

By plane

Plane travel is a fast and relatively safe alternative to tackling Bhutan's twisty roads, but schedules are sparse and flights are cancelled at the drop of a hat. Druk Air and Bhutan Airways (aka Tashi Air) fly from Paro (Thimphu) to Yongphula Airport near Trashigang and Bathpalathang Airport in Jakar, Bumthang region, and to Gelephu close to the Indian border, in the southern central region.

By bus

The roads that cross the country are characterised by their twists, turns, and steep inclines, but despite the difficult topography, they are generally very well-maintained and safe. Local and inter-district bus services are not so comfortable and stop frequently. Your local tour operator will provide a vehicle and driver for the duration of your stay. This cost is included in the daily tariff. However, travelling by local or inter-district bus or taxi can also be organised. The quality of road surface is variable with endless mountainous hairpin bends, so travel sickness tablets are recommended. Online bus booking website: https://www.drukride.com/ (but the website registration or app rarely work).

Hitchhiking

As the public transport running between towns in Bhutan is infrequent, hitching is a very common way to get around. The thumb in the air symbol, however, is not recognised, and you will need to flag down a passing vehicle in order to get one to stop. As some drivers pick up passengers as a means of supplementing their incomes, it is customary to offer payment when getting out of the vehicle (the amount depends roughly on the distance, but it will be comparable to the cost of travelling by bus). However, most drivers require nothing, and are more than happy just to have some company and the opportunity to make a new friend. If you plan to hitch a lot (and in some rural areas there is no other way to get around), it is a good idea to take a few small gifts to offer the drivers as an expression of your appreciation.

By car

Road traffic in Bhutan is left-hand drive. Mountain roads are narrow and winding, and rockslides and landslides are common. Although there is not much traffic, the roads are busy and traffic incidents are commonplace. Compared to western countries, traffic is dangerous and risky.

Due to the mountainous terrain, roads are frequently blocked by rock falls during the summer season. Therefore, it is best to avoid travelling long distances from the beginning of June to the end of August. However, if you must travel at this time, carry ample bottled water and snacks as if a landslide occurs it could take some time to clear the road.

At an altitude of 3750 m, the section of road that runs through the Thrumshingla Pass connecting Bumthang and Mongar is the highest in the country and offers some spectacular scenery. However, due to the steep sides of the valley it is especially susceptible to rock falls, so be prepared for long waits during the wet periods in particular.

The majority of tourists do "cultural tours" where they visit important destinations. Paro, Thimphu, Punakha, Phobjikha, and Jakar are popular destinations. Further afield, the unexplored region of Zhemgang (birders paradise, excellent wildlife viewing) and Eastern Bhutan have just been opened up to tourism. All foreigners are expected to pay a fee to enter certain religious sites or buildings of national significance, and the price can range from Nu500 to Nu1,000 - even foreigners who are working in Bhutan or who are paying the daily US$100 government sustainable development levy are subject to these fees.

Monasteries

Taktsang Monastery (Tiger's Nest), Paro. This is one of the most important Buddhist sites in the world, and Guru Rinpoche visited here in the 8th century on his second visit to Bhutan. It is the most recognised and visited monument in Bhutan. It is believed that he arrived on the back of a winged tigress, hence the name, Tiger's Nest. The temple is built on a 1,200-metre cliff and was built in 1692.

Hundreds of monasteries dot the landscape in some of the most pristine and remote areas.

Kurje Lhakhang, Jakar. A temple built around a cave with a body print of Guru Rinpoche embedded in the wall. Guru Rinpoche practiced meditation here on his first visit to Bhutan and as such it is the earliest Buddhist relic in the country.

Buddha Dordenma is a gigantic Shakyamuni Buddha statue in Thimphu. The statue houses over one hundred thousand smaller Buddha statues, each of which, like the Buddha Dordenma itself, are made of bronze and gilded in gold. The Buddha Dordenma is among the ruins of Kuensel Phodrang, the palace of Sherab Wangchuck, the thirteenth Desi Druk, overlooking the southern approach to Thimphu. At a height of 51.5 m, it is one of the largest Buddha rupas in the world.

Dzongs (fortresses)

The dzongs are ancient fortresses that now serve as the civil and monastic administration headquarters of each district. Apart from the architecture, which in itself makes a dzong worth visiting, they also hold many art treasures.

Dzongs dot the countryside and were built without the use of cement, nails or plans. Dzongs in Bhutan you can visit are:

• Punakha Dzong
• Trongsa Dzong
• Jakar Dzong
• Lhuentse Dzong
• Simtokha Dzong
• Gasa Dzong
• Rinpung Dzong
• Tashichho Dzong - Buddhist monastery and fortress on the northern edge of Thimpu; traditional seat of the Druk Desi (or "Dharma Raja"), the head of Bhutan's civil government (synonymous with the king since 1907) and summer capital
• Kagyu-Dzong
• Lingzhi Yügyal Dzong
• Drukgyal Dzong — Built in 1649, it is now in ruins, in Paro District.
• Changchukha Dzong
• Tsechen Monastery and Dzong
• Shongar Dzong
• Singye Dzong

Scenery

Bhutan's pristine environment offers ecosystems which are rich and diverse. Due to its location and great geographical and climatic variations, Bhutan's high, rugged mountains and valleys boast spectacular biodiversity, earning it a name as one of the world's ten most important biodiversity hotspots.

Recognizing the importance of environment, conservation of its rich biodiversity is one of its development paradigms. The government has decreed that 60% of its forest resources will be maintained for all time by law. Today, 72% of the total land area is under forest cover and 26% is protected in four parks.

35% of Bhutan is made up of protected national parks. Namely, Jigme Singye Wangchuck National Park (1,300 km²), TrumshingLa National Park (768 km²), Royal Manas National Park (9,938.54 km²), Jigme Dorji National Park (4,349 km²), Bumdeling Wildlife Sanctuary (1,545 km²) and Sakteng Wildlife Sanctuary (650 km²).

Archery is the national sport of Bhutan and competitions are held throughout the country at most weekends. Visitors are very welcome to watch and also to add voice to the boisterous cheering that accompanies these events.

Hot Stone Bath: The hot stone bath is a ritual in itself, riverside rocks are heated till red hot and gradually dropped into a wooden tub filled with water and scattered with Artemisia leaves. The burning rocks heat the water gradually and thus release minerals in to the water. Traditionally these bath are done near a river bed with plenty of supplies of stones and water and preferably after dark in the open air.

Week end Market in Thimphu: Every weekend, a market is held near the vegetable market (sabji bazaar), where artisans from all over the region come to sell their wares. On one side of the river, farmers sell their produce, while on the other, there is Bhutanese handcraft market selling colourful masks, religious artifacts, dresses, tools, swords and other curios.

Trekking

Trekking is extremely popular, though the walks are generally quite tough as there are no places to stay or eat in the higher regions, and so all food and camping equipment must be carried in. Autumn and spring are the best seasons for undertaking a trek. In the summer, the paths are too muddy, while in winter they are snow-covered. However, despite the difficulties of the treks, all efforts and discomforts are more than compensated for by the stunning scenery and extremely friendly, gentle and hospitable people that are met along the way.

The Druk path is the most commonly trekked from Paro, to the capital Thimphu. The Jomolhari and the Laya Gasa trek are also very popular, and the Snowman Trek is reported to be one of the toughest treks in the world, taking approximately 30 days. Many other treks are available, some even more impressive.

Festivals

Tshechu is the largest religious festival in Bhutan and is celebrated in the late summer and autumn throughout the country (see city articles for local information), though Thimphu Tshechu is the most famous and attracts around 30,000 people. The highlight of the tshechu ceremonies is the masked dances by monks, which were developed according to precise instructions given by past Buddhist masters. According to Buddhist philosophy, all experiences leave an imprint in the mind stream that produces a corresponding result in the future, and so viewing these dances, which are imbued with sacred symbolism, is considered to be a very auspicious and sanctifying experience. While the event is not held in a solemn atmosphere and there is much merriment, visitors are reminded that it is still a religious festival that is of great importance to Bhutanese people, and so appropriate behavior is expected.

Festivals or Tshechu (“tenth day”) are a major draw card to Bhutan and are held every year in various temples, monasteries and dzongs across the country. The Tshechu is mainly a religious event celebrated on the tenth day of the lunar calendar month corresponding to the birth day of Guru Rinpoche (Guru Padmasambhava). However the month of Tshechu depends place to place and temple to temple.

Tshechus are large social gatherings where people from various villages come together to witness the religious mask dances which are based on incidents from as long ago as the 8th century from the life of Guru Padmasambhava and to receive blessings from lamas. The event also consists of colourful Bhutanese dances and other entertainments.

It is said that everyone must attend a Tshechu and witness the mask dances at least once to receive the blessings and wash away the sins. Every mask dances performed during Tshechu has a meaning or a story behind. In monasteries the mask dances are performed by monks and in remote villages they are performed jointly by monks and village men. Among many Tshechus in the country most popular are Paro and Thimphu Tshechus in terms of participation and audience. Besides the locals many tourists from around the world are attracted to this unique, colourful and exciting culture.

Traditionally, the Paro and Thimphu have been the most popular but tourists are fast realizing that the smaller more rural festivals are much more intimate.

Other festivals, which happen throughout the year:

Money

The currency of the country is the Bhutanese Ngultrum, denoted by the symbol "Nu." (ISO code: BTN). It is fixed to the Indian rupee at an exchange rate of 1:1, and small Indian rupee bills (₹200 or less) can be used interchangeably in Bhutan. (This is one-way only, since ngultrum are not accepted in India.) Banknotes come in denominations of 1, 5, 10, 20, 50, 100, 500 and 1,000 ngultrum.

• US dollar: US dollars are widely accepted. Bhutanese currency is only needed for expenses personal in nature and buying small souvenir items.
• Credit/debit cards: Visa, MasterCard and Visa Maestro are compatible with most ATMs in Bhutan, most of which are concentrated in Thimphu and Paro.
• Money exchange Banks and major hotels change major currencies.
• ATMs: The main banks operate ATMs that accept international cards such as Visa MasterCard. However, as the service it is not overly reliable, it is best to have other funds on hand.
• Western Union Money Transfer: Thimphu Post Office. This facility can receive transfer of funds from overseas, but cannot make payments from customers' personal accounts.

Shopping

• Woven cloth. Bhutanese handwoven fabric is prized around the world, and is available stitched into clothing, wall hangings, table mats and rugs.
• Yathra. A brightly colored woven material made from wool and dyed with natural colors. It is sold in pieces or sewn into jackets, bags, rugs and wall hangings. Yathra is available in Thimphu and other cold areas, but is a specialty of the Jakar area.
• Dappa. Hand made wooden bowls. The halves of the bowl fit tightly together so they can be used to carry cooked food, which is their function in Bhutan. However, they also make excellent salad or cookie bowls. Dappa are a specialty of the Trashi Yangtse region, but can be purchased throughout the country.
• Bangchung. Small bamboo woven baskets with two tightly fitting halves. They are a specialty of southern Bhutan, but available throughout the country.

Rice is a staple with every meal; traditionally red rice, but white rice is now common too. Vegetable or meat dishes cooked with chilli and/or cheese comprise the accompanying cuisine.

Bhutanese food has one predominant flavour – chilli. This small red condiment is not only added to every dish but is also often eaten raw. So, if you don't like spicy-hot food, make this abundantly clear before ordering a meal. Otherwise, you'll be spending the next hour dousing your mouth with cold yoghurt or milk.

Rice forms the main body of most Bhutanese meals. It is accompanied by one or two side dishes consisting of meat or vegetables. Pork, beef and chicken are the meats that are eaten most often. Vegetables commonly eaten include Spinach, pumpkins, turnips, radishes, tomatoes, river weed, onions and green beans. Grains such as rice, buckwheat and barley are also cultivated in various regions of the country depending on the local climate.

The following is a list of some of the most popular Bhutanese dishes:

• Ema datshi: The national dish of Bhutan. A spicy mix of chillies and the delicious local cheese known as datsi. This dish is a staple of nearly every meal and can be found throughout the country. Variations include adding green beans, ferns, potatoes, mushrooms or swapping the regular cheese for yak cheese.
• Momos: These Tibetan-style dumplings are stuffed with pork, beef or cabbages and cheese. Traditionally eaten during special occasions, these tasty treats are a Bhutanese favourite.
• Phaksha paa: Pork cooked with spicy red chillies. This dish can also include Radishes or Spinach. A popular variation uses sun-dried (known as Sicaam).
• Hoentoe: Aromatic buckwheat dumplings stuffed with turnip greens, datshi (cheese), spinach and other ingredients.
• Jasha maru: Spicy minced chicken, tomatoes and other ingredients that is usually served with rice.
• Red rice: This rice is similar to brown rice and is extremely nutritious and filling. When cooked it is pale pink, soft and slightly sticky.
• Goep (tripe): Though the popularity of tripe has diminished in many countries it is still enjoyed in Bhutan. Like most other meat dishes, it is cooked with plenty of spicy chillies and chilli powder.

Vegetarian dishes

Most datshi (cheese) dishes are vegetarian, although some versions use meat instead of vegetables.

• Kewa-datsi. A potato, cheese and chilli dish.
• Shamu-datsi. A mushroom, cheese and chilli dish.

Kewa-datsi and shamu-datsi tend to be less hot than ema-datsi; all three dishes are generally served with rice.

• Mutter paneer. Though not a Bhutanese dish, this Indian staple of curried peas and cheese is readily available throughout Bhutan and is therefore an additional choice for vegetarians.
• Cheese momo. A small steamed bun that traditionally contained cheese, cabbage and sometimes onion. However, these days other vegetables, including green papaya, may be substituted for cabbage.
• Khuli. Buckwheat pancakes - a specialty of Bumthang. They are often served with ema-datsi as an alternative to rice.
• Puta. A dish of buckwheat noodles usually served with curd - a specialty of Bumthang

Where to eat

Hotels, resorts and restaurants offer Bhutanese,  Chinese, European and Indian cuisine.

Imtrat, the Indian military mission to Bhutan, run canteens that sell excellent Indian dishes along with tea from 9:30AM–4:30PM. The quality of the food is very good, while the price is low. The canteens are located throughout the country, especially along main highways.

• Ara. A local spirit brewed from rice or corn. It is popular in rural areas, and often served in restaurants, particularly at the start of meals, poured from a special vessel. Ara is more commonly drunk in the east of the country, particularly in and around Lhuentse.
• Tea. Located next to the tea growing regions of Assam and Darjeeling, a steaming cuppa remains the popular drink in Bhutan, with both the butter variety (suja) and sweet milk kind (cha) readily available throughout the country. The butter tea is very traditional but has quite a strong flavor and is similar to Tibetan tea, while the sweet milk kind is very drinkable and is like Indian chai.
• Coffee. The coffee culture that has swept most of the planet has taken root in the country, and there are a number of good cafes in Thimphu, Paro, and Jakar. However, outside these three towns, coffee means the instant variety and it is served simply white or black.
• Beer. The main local beers are from Bhutan Brewery (founded 2006), part of the Tashi Group conglomerate, and are sold in 650 ml bottles: Druk 11000 (8%) is cheapest and high in alcohol; slightly higher quality and lower alcohol are Druk Lager Premium (5%) and Druk Supreme (6%); but none of these are particularly good. There is also sometimes Red Panda Weissbeer (wheat beer), which is rather good. Imported beers may not be available, as importing these is sometimes banned.
• Whisky. There is some "Bhutanese whisky", though it is neither Bhutanese nor straight whisky. Rather, it is blended whisky, made of imported Scotch malt whisky blended with grain neutral spirits: it is blended and bottled in Bhutan, but not distilled locally. These are produced by the Army Welfare Project in Gelephu, and the main brand is Special Courier, which is surprisingly drinkable.

All towns connected by motorable roads have hotels, though the standard varies considerably. International standard hotels are mostly found in tourist areas or major towns, while five star accommodation is only available in Paro, Jakar, Punakha, Gangtey and Thimphu.

The hotel rates shown on the city articles are only relevant to people who have residency, visa exemption (generally this only applies to Indian nationals) or who are visiting the country as an invited guest. Other visitors can only enter the country as part of a tour, for which the daily rates are set by the Bhutanese authorities irrespective of the hotel rates (except for very expensive hotels where a surcharge is added).

In addition, the tourism ministry has a list of homestays. These provide accommodation in areas without hotels.

Buddhism

• It is possible to receive instruction on Buddhist practice at any monastery, though for discussions on Buddhist philosophy it is better to consult with the khenpos or loppons (teachers) at Buddhist colleges (shedra), such as, for example, Lhodrak Kharchhu Monastery in Jakar, Tango Monastery near Thimphu or Chokyi Gyatso Institute in Deothang.
• Weaving - Bhutanese woven cloth is prized throughout the world for its unique designs and high quality, and there is a weaving centre in Khaling in Trashigang.

There are a few NGOs based in Bhutan, so it is possible to arrange volunteer work. However, Bhutan is very selective about who it engages in this field. In addition, it is highly unlikely that a position can be found while visiting Bhutan, so those interested in undertaking volunteer work here should first seek employment with NGOs overseas and then express a preference to go to Bhutan. However, although Bhutan is an interesting place to be stationed and time spent here can be rewarding, prospective volunteers and those engaged in official work should know that they will require an immigration permit each time they wish to travel beyond their designated district of work. They will often only receive a single entry visa, domestic and international flights will be charged at roughly three times the local rate (extremely expensive for volunteers with a family), and they will have to pay high tourist rates to enter monasteries and buildings of historical significance.

• While drug abuse is not uncommon in urban areas, it will not affect tourists, and Bhutan remains one of the safest places in the world for travellers.
• The majority of Bhutanese are honest, but there are reports of money and valuables being taken from vehicles at tourist sites. So, don't be lulled into a sense of false security by the peaceful environment, and refrain from leaving anything of value in a vehicle, especially at tourist sites.
• Police in Thimphu are visible, with uniformed patrols through the streets at all hours. The police speak English and are very trustworthy and helpful. The emergency number for police is 113.
• Bears are a threat in remote mountainous regions.
• Earthquakes are a major concern in Bhutan. Several parts of Bhutan lie on active fault zones in the Himalayas. Limited emergency vehicles, equipment and medical facilities are likely to increase the impact of an earthquake.

• Hospitals and clinics are located throughout the country, even in the remotest areas. However, travellers should not expect hi-tech facilities, and at many of the Basic Health Units the resident doctor is often away.
• Indigenous medical facilities are located in all district capitals, with the largest being in Thimphu, so it is also possible to have ailments diagnosed and treated using natural herbal compounds while in Bhutan.
• Waterborne diseases such as diarrhea, dysentery, giardia and even typhoid are not uncommon in Bhutan, especially during the summer monsoon season. Tap water is not safe to drink. Therefore, ensure that all water has been thoroughly boiled or otherwise purified before consuming.
• In case of emergency, it is advisable to carry a first aid kit, which might include a few antibiotics and paracetamol.
• Altitude sickness can strike at altitudes as low as 2,500m. Be aware of this before embarking on expeditions in the mountains. If you suffer palpitations, shortness of breath or severe headaches, inform your guide and head to a lower altitude immediately. Take altitude sickness seriously. It can and does kill.
• The hygiene standard is acceptable in tourist areas. However, it is probably wise to bring medicine for stomach upsets.
• The Street dog population is very high in Thimphu (and to a lesser extent in many of the towns). Most of the animals are extremely docile and there are very few cases of tourists ever being bitten. Still, it is best to err on the side of safety and not to disturb the animals. Moreover, if bitten, you will need to get an immediate rabies vaccination. Although incidences of the disease are uncommon in Thimphu and areas away from the Indian border, it inevitably proves fatal if left untreated.
• Malaria and dengue fever are not common problems in Bhutan, though there are outbreaks in the Indian border regions during the summer monsoon season.

Much of what is considered good manners in South Asia is applicable to Bhutan.

• The Bhutanese king and royal family enjoy a deserved high level of respect in Bhutan. Speaking ill of them is considered extremely disrespectful.
• As is the case in many countries in Asia, Bhutanese culture is hierarchical, which means that showing respect for the elderly is important. Try to conduct yourself appropriately when conversing with someone older than you or in a position of authority.
• Religion plays an important role in the lives of many Bhutanese people. Although Vajrayana Buddhism is the country's state religion, the Bhutanese constitution prohibits political activities and parties based on religion and allows people the right to freely practice the religion of their choice. This being said, proselytism is illegal and is punishable by imprisonment.
• Sacred objects. Always pass mani stones, stupas and other religious objects with your right side nearest to the object, and turn prayer wheels in a clockwise direction. Never sit on mani stones or stupas.
• Clothing. When visiting temples, remove shoes and headgear and wear clothing that expresses respect for the sacred nature of the site. Shorts and revealing clothes should be avoided. Dress respectfully when visiting temples and Dzongs (fortified buildings, like castles), so that you do not cause offence. Your tour guide will be able to advise.
• Donations. At monasteries, it is custom to make a small donation to the monks as a sign of respect; and also to the Buddhist statues as a means of developing a generous and spacious mind. There are many places in each temple where you can donate, and it is expected that you donate to each place. Remember to carry small notes for this gesture. However, making a donation is not mandatory.
• Smoking. It is illegal to smoke at monasteries and in public places. Larger cafes and restaurants will have a designated smoking area.
• Wildlife, animal products and souvenirs. Environmental conservation is critically important to Bhutan. You could be imprisoned for harming protected species. Littering is illegal in Bhutan
• Photography and video recording are considered disruptive in most temples and monasteries. Ask for permission.

Getting things done

Getting things done at government offices is relatively straightforward and, unlike many countries in the region, you will never be asked to pay a bribe. However, due to excessive red tape, Bhutan's civil service is commonly referred to as 'bureaucracy on steroids', and, as a result of needing to get permission for even the smallest and most insignificant project, Bhutan is often jokingly called the country where you need 'a permit to pee.' So, if you plan to submit any kind of proposal, be prepared to complete endless forms, submit unlimited applications, and to wait in line at numerous counters.

Payment for goods and services

Payments can be made in cash (local currency and Indian rupees) and in crypto currency (download the Binance Pay App:https://pay.binance.com/en). Other than airlines and five star resorts, international credit cards are not widely accepted as means of payment, though ATM machines are available in all urban centres.

• The international dialling code for Bhutan is +975
• Wi-Fi is readily available in the majority of hotels throughout the country, and most population centres still retain one or two internet cafes.
• SIM cards can be purchased at the Paro airport; with unlimited 14-day 4G plans costing 2000Nu (as of April 2025). Bhutan Telecomm and Tashi Cell were offering the same deal and price, and both have kiosks right before you exit the airport.
• Most of Bhutan has mobile phone coverage, which is smart phone capable. B-Mobile has agreements with North American, some Asian and European countries on mobile roaming. Tashi Cell is another mobile company based in country.
• Tourists can now quickly and easily register for a B-Mobile SIM that is valid for 1 month. Simply take your passport to a B-Mobile office. The SIM card costs 50Nu, and comes with 50Nu credit. Ask them to activate 3G and data access while you are there, and test if it works before leaving. There are no data plans per se, but the rate is affordable by international standards (0.0003Nu/KB). The only available SIM card size is the standard size, but some offices have sim cutters for the iPhone 4 & 5 (if you're worried, bring your own SIM cutter). B-Mobile recharge cards can be purchased in most general stores.
• The official tourism board in Bhutan is the Tourism Council of Bhutan, for more information on the destination you can find it on their website.

Media

• Kuensel. A partially government-owned newspaper with a forty-year history. Kuensel is published M-Sa.
• BBS. The official TV broadcasting station.
• Radio Valley. Bhutan's first private FM radio station. A program called "With Love From Home" can be listened to online.
• Kuzoo FM An English language radio channel - mixture of youth orientated music and discussion programs - FM 105.

• Delhi – Druk Air operates daily flights to Delhi, while Bhutan Airlines flies to the Indian capital six times a week, via Kathmandu.
• Dhaka – Druk Air operates 3 flights a week from Paro to Dhaka, the capital of Bangladesh.
• Kolkata – Druk Air (Royal Bhutan Airlines) and Bhutan Airlines (Tashi Air Pvt Ltd) flies between Paro and Kolkata. In addition, the Bhutan Government operates an overnight bus service from Phuentsholing on Monday, Wednesday and Friday. The buses depart from Bhutan Post office at 15:00, and the journey takes around 18 hours and costs ₹/Nu.300
• Nepal – many travellers to Bhutan combine the visit with a trip to this other Himalayan country and Druk Airways operate flights from Paro to Kathmandu.
• Siliguri - buses and taxis (around Nu3,000) ply the four hour journey from Phuentsholing. Druk Air operates two flights a week that stop in Siliguri's Bagdogra Airport. As well as being a major shopping centre, Siliguri is also a transportation hub, and there are buses to Gaya and Kathmandu and flights to Bangkok and most major Indian cities.
• Thailand – Drukair operates daily flights from Paro to Bangkok. Bhutan Airlines (Tashi Air Pvt Ltd) also flies there four times a week.