Guide to Afghanistan

Afghanistan is a landlocked country at the crossroads of Central and South Asia. The country shares borders with Uzbekistan, Turkmenistan, Tajikistan, Iran, Pakistan, China, and the disputed Kashmir territory.

Once the centre of many powerful empires, the country has been in chaos and turmoil since the 1970s. Political unrest is rampant, and the country suffers from many social problems, such as war, drought, a public health crisis, terrorism, corruption, warlordism, poverty, and low literacy rates.

However, under less extreme circumstances, this vast, mountainous country offers a lot to the adventurous, thrill-seeking traveller. Its landscapes are simply majestic, the history lover can appreciate numerous historical sites from all eras, and the architecture lover can feast their eyes on such wonderful Islamic architecture. There's even a shrine that houses a cloak once worn by Prophet Muhammad, the founder of Islam.

Afghanistan is a melting pot of cultures, with Pashtuns, Tajiks, Hazaras, and Uzbeks constituting the largest ethnic groups. Islam is the state religion, hence the name "Islamic Emirate of Afghanistan". A majority of Afghans are Sunni Muslims, although about 20% of them are Shia Muslims. Agriculturally rich and traditionally a Muslim nation, Afghanistan is a mostly tribal society with each of the country's own subcultures in some specific regions.

Despite poverty and political and religious extremism, tourists often find themselves being treated as celebrities here; in fact, they might be showered with a lot of hospitality and care, even if they unintentionally make a few cultural blunders.

In the 1960s and early 1970s, Afghanistan was a popular destination for adventurous travellers, part of the "Hippie Trail" Istanbul to New Delhi overland route. Dirt cheap, culturally fascinating and with plenty of excellent hashish; what more could a hippie want? However, it has not been anywhere close to safe since the Russian invasion of 1979.

Since March 2026, the process for obtaining a tourist visa is quite easy for most travelers, as it can be obtained entirely online as an eVisa. Only a small number of countries, none of them Western, are restricted from this process. See the Get in section below for details.

The south and east are predominantly Pushtun and the Hindu Kush mountain area has many Hazara, but all regions have considerable mixing of ethnic groups.

English spellings of Afghan place names vary as there is no regulation of names when written in the Latin script. For example, Q may replace K as in Qandahar or Qunduz. Kunduz will be seen spelled as Konduz, Qunduz, Qundoz, Qundoze and variations on these. Bamiyan is often spelled as Bamian or Bamyan. Khowst may be spelt as Khost.

• Kabul - in the east, the capital and largest city

• Balkh – once one of the greatest cities in the region and capital of ancient Bactria. Although much of it lies in ruins, the remaining architectural and cultural elements are little changed since Alexander the Great set foot there.
• Bamiyan - the remains of the Buddhas. Once considered one of the wonders of the world, these tall stone carvings were destroyed by the Taliban in a notorious act of cultural vandalism.
• Ghazni - in the south-east, between Kabul and Kandahar
• Herat - in the west, gateway to Iran, has a strong Persian influence and several interesting historical sites
• Jalalabad - in the east, between Kabul and the Khyber Pass
• Kandahar - a very conservative city in the south. Known as the home of the Taliban.
• Kunduz - a major city in the northeast, and crossing point to Tajikistan
• Mazar-e Sharif - home to the impressively tiled Blue Mosque, and the staging point for trips into Uzbekistan. Ethnically diverse, Mazar is considered the most liberal city in the country after Kabul.

• Band-e Amir National Park – 5 stunningly turquoise lakes in a remote and beautiful setting not far from Bamiyan
• Khyber Pass – the gateway to India and historic route of invasion and trade
• Minaret of Jam – well off the beaten path but some say worth the journey – possible as a roundtrip from Herat or when traversing the Central Route from Herat to Kabul
• Nuristan - an isolated mountain area with its own culture
• Panjshir Valley – a beautiful trekking area leading to the famous Anjuman Pass
• Salang Pass – a high mountain pass and tunnel linking Kabul to the north
• Shamali Plain – a green plain north of Kabul that produced a lot of the food for central Afghanistan. From Kabul it extends north through Charikar, Parwan province to Jabal os Saraj. The Taliban destroyed the irrigation systems and it is just beginning to recover.
• Wakhan National Park – one of Afghanistan's most isolated areas, with soaring mountains and unique culture

Afghanistan has been in the news since the late 1970s for all the wrong reasons. While visiting has not been advisable for many years, it has much to offer the intrepid traveller. However, even the more adventurous tourists should consider looking elsewhere for thrill-seeking.

History

Afghanistan borders Persia, Central Asia and South Asia, and various Silk Road routes cross it to connect those regions. It has been described as "the crossroads of Asia" and has history of trade going back to before 2000 BCE.

Human presence in the fertile river valleys dates back tens of thousands of years. By the Bronze Age, around 3000 BCE, farming communities grew into early urban centres like Mundigak near Kandahar, connected to the Indus Valley Civilization. During the Vedic period (c. 1500–500 BCE), early Indo-Aryan tribes inhabited the Kabul River Valley, known in ancient Sanskrit texts as the Kubha. The historical kingdom of Gandhara spanned eastern Afghanistan and Pakistan and its ancient capital gives modern Kandahar its name. For centuries, the area was a Buddhist and Hindu heartland.

The country has a long history of conflict – raiding and banditry, battles between tribes, and resistance against invaders including several Persian and Indian Empires, Alexander the Great, the Arabs during the Islamic Golden Age, the Mongol Empire in the 13th century, and the British Empire in the 19th. Its recent history is no exception: the Soviet Union invaded late in the 20th century and a U.S.-led coalition invaded early in the 21st. The Afghans have given all invaders trouble; the country has been so difficult to conquer that it is known as the Graveyard of Empires.

The modern-day country was founded by secession from the Persian Empire in 1709. Since then, there have been several dynasties and at times the Afghans ruled what are now Iran, Iraq, most of Pakistan and parts of India.

In the late 19th century, Afghanistan became a buffer state in the "Great Game" between the British Empire and the Russian Empire. After the Second Anglo-Afghan War Britain gained control of Afghanistan's foreign relations as part of the Treaty of Gandamak of 1879. In 1893, the ethnic Pashtun and Baloch territories were divided between Britain and Afghanistan by the Durand Line, which forms the modern-day border between Pakistan and Afghanistan. Afghanistan became fully independent from the British in 1919.

A coup in 1978, overthrowing the monarchy, brought a socialist regime to power, but they were by no means universally accepted; some of their officials and Soviet advisers were killed. The Soviet Union invaded in December 1979 to support the regime and a long messy war ensued, with the Soviet and their Afghan government allies on one side and several groups known as the Mujahedeen on the other. The Mujahedeen were armed and funded mainly by the United States, Saudi Arabia, other Gulf Arabs, Iran and China, and many were trained in Pakistan. By February 1989, all Soviet forces withdrew from the country, and the Soviet Union collapsed two years later in 1991.

After the Russians left, the country was somewhat chaotic, apparently reverting to its tribal past with no effective central government and various Mujahedeen leaders ruling separate fiefs and sometimes fighting each other. Taliban (lit. students) – made up primarily of ethnic Pashtuns and inspired by the fundamentalist Deobandi interpretation of Sunni Islam – emerged as a political force in the early 90s, heavily backed by (some would say created by) Pakistani intelligence and largely funded by the CIA, to end "warlordism" and bring security to the country. They seized Kabul in late 1996 and controlled most of the country by 2000, aside from some areas in the northeast.

Al-Qaeda (translated, the base) began in 1988 as a group of mostly Arab volunteers aiding the Mujahedeen; like Taliban they were supported in the 1990s by Pakistan and the U.S., but they also got considerable Arab support. By 2000 they were led by the Saudi Osama bin Laden, and guided by the very strict Wahhabi interpretation of Sunni Islam.

Al-Qaeda would later orchestrate the September 11, 2001 terrorist attacks in the United States. The U.S. government demanded that the Taliban hand over Osama bin Laden and other Al-Qaeda militants for trial in a US court. Taliban refused, though they did offer to try Osama in their own shariah court if the U.S. government shared "solid evidence" of his alleged guilt with them, and also expressed willingness in principle to consider extraditing Osama to a third country for a trial before a shariah court there. The U.S. refused to share whatever evidence they had with the Taliban and considered the Taliban's offers insufficient, so they and their allies chose to take military action with support from anti-Taliban Afghans — mainly Tajik, Uzbek and Turkmen warlords from the north of the country who fought in the Northern Alliance — causing the Taliban regime to fall in December 2001.

The same month, representatives from all ethnic groups of Afghanistan met in Germany and agreed to form a new government with Hamid Karzai as Chairman of the Afghan Interim Authority. Following a nationwide election in 2004, Hamid Karzai was elected as President of the Islamic Republic of Afghanistan. A year later, in 2005, legislative elections were held and the country's parliament began functioning again. In addition to occasionally violent political jockeying and ongoing military action to root out anti-government elements, the country sufferred from widespread election fraud, poverty, corruption, and opium cultivation.

In 2021, the United States and other NATO countries withdrew their troops, and the Taliban seized control of most of the country. The U.S.-backed Afghan government swiftly collapsed, and the Taliban formed a new government. Though active fighting between different armed forces appears to have greatly decreased since then, terrorism, such as from the Islamic State organization, is still a problem. A more pressing issue is shortages of food and other goods due to drought and sanctions that were imposed due to the overall human rights situation and especially the draconian restrictions the Taliban imposed on women, who are now not permitted to go to university and allowed to hold jobs in very few professions.

In 2026, Afghanistan legalized chattel slavery and created an associated legal social hierarchy; the way it will be practiced is largely unclear so far.

People

Afghanistan is an ethnically diverse country. Tribal and local allegiances are strong, which complicates national politics immensely. The largest ethnic group is the Pashtuns, followed by Tajiks, Hazaras, Uzbeks and others.

Baloch tribesmen, still largely nomadic, can be found anywhere between Quetta in Pakistan and Mashad in Iran, including much of western Afghanistan. They make marvellous rugs, if somewhat simple.

Hazaras in the central mountains look much more similar to East Asians than other Afghans do. According to some theories, they are descended from Genghis Khan's Mongol soldiers.

The two largest linguistic groups speak Pashto and Dari (Afghan Persian). Pashto speakers predominate in the south and east, Dari in the north, west and central Afghanistan. About 11% of the population have Turkic languages such as Uzbek or Turkmen as their first language. Many of them live in the north, near the borders with Uzbekistan and Turkmenistan. Minor native language groups include Nuristanis, Pashais and Pamiris, found in small pockets in the east and northeast.

There are also thousands of Hindus and Sikhs living in different cities, but mostly in Kabul, Jalalabad, and Kandahar.

Climate

Temperatures in the central highlands are below freezing for most of the winter, and snow is common at higher elevations. Summertime highs in lower elevations (such as Jalalabad or Mazar-e Sharif) can exceed 50°C/120°F. In higher areas such as Kabul, summer temperatures can be 30°C/90°F and winter around 0°C/30°F. The most pleasant weather in Kabul is during April, May and September.

Terrain

Mostly rugged mountains; plains in north and southwest. The Hindu Kush mountains run northeast to southwest, dividing the northern provinces from the rest of the country, with the highest peaks found in the northern Wakhan Corridor. South of Kandahar is desert.

The lowest point is downstream the river Amu Darya at 258 m, and the highest is on the mountain Nowshak at 7,485 m.

Afghanistan is bordered by Pakistan to the south and east, Iran to the west, Turkmenistan, Uzbekistan and Tajikistan to the north. There is a short border with China to the far northeast, but in extremely inaccessible terrain.

Electricity

Officially 220 V 50 Hz. Electricity supplies are erratic, but slowly improving in major cities. Voltage can drop to below 150 V in some places. The Afghans' enthusiasm for homemade generators or modifying low quality ones means that the frequency and voltage can also vary wildly.

There are three types of electrical outlets likely to be found in Afghanistan. They are the old British standard BS-546 and the newer British standard BS 1363. But the European standard CEE-7/7 "Schukostecker" or "Schuko" is the standard and the most common. Generally speaking, Canadian and Americans should pack adapters for these outlets if they plan to use North American electrical equipment in Afghanistan. You may also find cheap universal adapters in the local markets, but make sure you have an understanding of electrical systems and the nature of adapters.

Read

• A Short Walk in the Hindu Kush by Eric Newby — a hilarious account of pioneer trekking in Nuristan in the 1950s
• The Places in Between by Rory Stewart — a fascinating post 9/11 travelogue of Stewart's walk from Herat to Kabul just after the fall of the Taliban.
• The Kite Runner by Khalid Hosseini — a beautiful and heartbreaking tale of childhood in Afghanistan
• Good Morning Afghanistan by Waseem Mahmood — a true account of the setting up of the first public radio station in Kabul after the Taliban fell.
• An Unexpected Light: Travels in Afghanistan by Jason Elliot — a travelogue from the period between the expulsion of the Soviets and the ascension of the Taliban. He went everywhere.
• For a Pagan Song by Jonny Bealby — a brilliant account of the author's journey to retrace the footsteps of Rudyard Kipling's heroes in The Man Who Would Be King to discover the land of Kafiristan (now Nuristan) and the people who inhabit the region.
• Flashman — a hilarious historical novel recounting the disastrous 1842 retreat from Kabul during the First Anglo-Afghan War

The official languages of Afghanistan are Dari (an Afghan dialect of Persian), which serves as the country's lingua franca, and Pashto, spoken by the largest and most influential ethnic group, the Pashtuns. According to the CIA World Factbook, 78% of Afghans speak Dari, and 50% speak Pashto. Many Afghans are bilingual in those two languages.

You're more likely to find a Pashto speaker in areas close to the border with Pakistan than anywhere else. There are also some speakers of Urdu along that border and of Persian along the border with Iran.

As Afghanistan is a diverse, multi-ethnic country, hundreds of languages are spoken throughout. Some of the most commonly spoken minority languages include Uzbek, Turkmen, Pashayi, Baloch, and Nuristani.

Although English is taught from the fourth grade, very few Afghans speak English. According to the CIA World Factbook, less than 5% of all Afghans speak English. You're likely to find an English speaker in the capital city, Kabul. A solid knowledge of Dari and Pashto is essential for the daring, independent traveller.

Thanks to the influence of Indian cinema and cordial relations between the central government and India, a sizeable number of people can speak and understand Hindi. Approximately 2% of all Afghans speak Urdu. You're likely to find speakers in Kabul.

The literacy rate in Afghanistan is low.

Border crossings may get closed on short notice. Regulations on entry and exit may change without notice.

Visas

All visitors need to apply for a visa in advance. Since March 2026, the easiest way for tourists from almost any country to obtain a visa is to apply online through the new eVisa system. These visas require entry at Kabul International airport, are valid for a 30-day visit within a 90-day validity period, and are single entry. Israel is the only country whose citizens may not obtain any kind of visa, though a small number of other nationalities or people residing in those countries are ineligible for the eVisa and must apply for a physical one. See Visa policy of Afghanistan on Wikipedia for an up-to-date list. The official site for visa applications is eafghans.com. The visa process is paid in two halves. The first, which is less than $10, is paid at application. You only pay the remaining amount (US$205 for US citizens or US$125 for others) after approval of the application. Though expensive, it is more generous than other countries since you only lose a few dollars if your application is denied.

For physical visas, the Taliban does not accept visas issued by embassies that do not cooperate with them, meaning that visas issued by many Afghan diplomatic posts in Western countries will not be accepted. Some Western missions still run by the former government are considered by the Taliban to be cooperative, though the list changes frequently. Only diplomatic posts bearing the name "Islamic Emirate of Afghanistan" are fully staffed and operated by Taliban appointees. An embassy run by the Taliban may be a safer choice for obtaining a visa, even though some others are designated by the Taliban as acceptable posts for obtaining a visa. See List of diplomatic missions of Afghanistan on Wikipedia for detailed and frequently-updated information.

Prior to the launch of the eVisa system, most tour companies included a stop to obtain your visa in Dubai, where the Islamic Emirate consulate has an especially good reputation for quickly issuing tourist visas. Tourist visas are one-month single-entry for all countries. In-person visits to embassies or consulates are required unless applying for the eVisa. Bring with you four passport-sized photos (two for your visa application, and two to hand to immigration when you arrive in Afghanistan) and two colour photocopies of your passport's data page. For most travels to Afghanistan you need to have a detailed itinerary explaining the nature of your visit and places you intend to visit. Some consulates may also demand a letter of invitation, which tour companies can obtain for you.

Customs

There are strict rules about goods you can take into or out of Afghanistan. You must declare anything that may be prohibited or subject to tax or duty.

There is an absolute ban on alcohol, illicit drugs, pork and its products, pornography and obscene material, and subversive or anti-Islamic literature.

Drones are illegal to import without prior government permission and will be seized at the border.

A "reasonable amount" of cigarettes or loose tobacco clearly meant for personal use is allowed; same goes for perfume. Laptops, phones, and personal cameras are permitted but may be inspected for restricted digital content. Only personal-use quantities of medicine are allowed; you must carry an official doctor's prescription.

It is illegal to carry more than 5,000 US dollars in cash through airports and more than 500 US dollars through land borders.

By plane

Kabul International Airport (KBL) in Kabul is the main entry point to the country and the only one allowed when entering on an eVisa. As of 2026, the airlines based in out of Kabul include flag carrier Ariana Afghan Airlines and the privately-run Kam Air. Neither the airlines nor the airport are up to international safety standards. FlyDubai, Etihad Airways, and Turkish Airlines operate regular flights and are up to international safety standards.

By car

There are a number of roads into Afghanistan:

• From Peshawar in Pakistan via the Khyber Pass to Jalalabad, in the east. A shared taxi from Peshawar to Torkham border (Khyber Pass) costs Rs 2000 (2025), another one from the border to Kabul takes 5 hours and costs US$15 (2025).
• From Quetta, Pakistan, to Kandahar, in the south. This crossing is closed to third-country nationals.
• From Mashad, Iran to Herat, in the west. This border is open to foreigners.
• From Termez, Uzbekistan to Mazar-e Sharif, in the north. This border is open to third-country nationals.
• From Tajikistan to Kunduz, in the northwest. The security situation at this border was not considered conducive to passage as of 2019.

As of 2023, none of these routes were considered safe.

By bus

Buses run regularly between Mashad, Iran and Herat. Afghani buses are thoroughly checked by Iranian border police for possible drugs, so expect delays.

By train

Afghanistan has never had a national railway network and while there are a few spur lines from neighboring countries, most notably to Mazar-e Sharif, there were no passenger trains as of 2020. However there are several border towns with passenger trains, from where it's possible to continue into Afghanistan on foot or by taxi.

Across the border from Northwest Afghanistan, the city of Termez in Uzbekistan sees trains from both Moscow and Tashkent. From Pakistan, it's possible to take a train from Quetta to the border town of Chaman and continue into South Afghanistan (check current situation, as there may be fighting between Afghanistan and Pakistan).

To visit different places and objects in the country you need to buy permits. These are both for your security (checked at police checkpoints, need to register them in local tourist bureaus) and to support the country. In Kabul these permits are issued by Afghan Tour (Abdullhaq crossroad, +93 20 210 6837) and cost 1000 Afs (2025) for each area you want. Getting these permits can take considerable time, and the officers demand you to have a "translator" (kind of guide which helps you with language and getting around). You may want to find a local travel agency or a guide to help you with this. They would also give you practical information, safety tips and take you on a tour. To find an agency or a guide, search the Internet or Facebook at home, or ask at your hotel when you come.

By plane

Flag carrier Ariana Afghan Airlines and Kam Air both operate flights between Kabul, Herat, Mazar-I-Sharif and Kandahar.

By car

The nation's vital transit corridors include the Kabul to Mazar-i-Sharif Highway, which crosses the Hindu Kush mountain range via the Salang Tunnel, and the Kabul to Kandahar Highway, connecting the capital to the south. However, high-quality paved roads remain rare across the country. Over 90% of Afghanistan's roads consist of local dirt or gravel tracks that are highly vulnerable to seasonal weather, rapidly deteriorating into mud during periods of rain or mountain snowmelt. Furthermore, the Salang Tunnel and major highways frequently undergo extensive government rehabilitation, triggering strict temporary closures and traffic restrictions that significantly affect transit times.

By hired vehicle

Urban mobility and vehicle hire services have shifted under new regulations, though traditional practices persist. The traditional fleet of yellow taxis is transitioning out, as the current government mandates that all official commercial taxis adopt a uniform blue and white color scheme. Street-hail taxis still do not utilize meters, requiring passengers to negotiate and agree on a flat fare with the driver before entering the vehicle. Meanwhile, urban mobility in Kabul has partially modernized with app-based booking services like Afghan Taxi Online, though public transit is subject to strict gender-segregated rules that restrict women from travelling long distances without a male relative.

For remote travel, private 4x4 vehicles like Toyota Land Cruisers remain available for hire with local drivers to navigate poor terrain. Dedicated travel agencies in Kabul continue to coordinate airport transfers and guides, but travellers should note that modern service stations are concentrated along major urban highways, leaving fuel and mechanical provisions sparse throughout the deep countryside.

Despite severe travel warnings, Afghanistan remains a land of profound historical significance. The conventional civil war has largely ceased, improving road security, and the nation has introduced an online visa system. Foreign visitor numbers are slowly growing alongside a booming domestic travel market.

The cultural landscape of the Bamiyan Valley stands as a prominent UNESCO World Heritage site. While the destruction of the 6th-century Buddhist sculptures shocked the world, the massive empty sandstone niches remain a poignant monument. Visitors can still explore the complex network of ancient monastic caves, the citadel ruins of Shahr-e Gholghola, and the red fortress at Shah-e Zohak.

Band-e Amir is a natural sanctuary situated at 2,900 metres in the Hindu Kush mountains. The park features six interconnected lakes known for their pure, intense travertine-blue waters. These striking lakes contrast sharply against the surrounding arid, sandy mountains. While it remains a major attraction, travelers should note that access rules fluctuate and sometimes restrict women's participation.

The urban centres of northern and western Afghanistan house magnificent examples of Islamic architecture. Mazar-i-Sharif is defined by the Blue Mosque, which serves as a major cultural hub adorned with vibrant tilework. Herat features the grand Great Mosque, celebrated for its Timurid-era mosaics, alongside the ancient Herat Citadel. In nearby Balkh, travelers can visit the Green Mosque and the 9th-century Haji Piyada Mosque, the oldest known Islamic structure in the country.

Located in a remote river valley in Ghor province, the 65-metre-tall Minaret of Jam is a masterpiece of 12th-century Ghurid architecture. Built of baked mud-bricks with geometric carvings and blue calligraphic tiles, the tower is on the UNESCO List of World Heritage in Danger due to river erosion. However, as of 2026, formal stabilization efforts and a government restoration project are underway to safeguard the structure.

Foreign tourists are no longer permitted to sightsee independently. All activities must be coordinated through licensed tour operators or registered local guides under Afghan Tour. Travelers must register at the Ministry of Information and Culture in Kabul upon arrival and pay a direct tourist permit fee of approximately 1,000 AFN for each province they visit.

Wandering historic markets remains a popular urban activity. The Kabul Bird Market offers a narrow, bustling glimpse into traditional life, while Chicken Street provides opportunities to browse antique rugs and lapis lazuli jewelry. Walking through the geometric terraces of the Babur Gardens in Kabul offers a peaceful retreat featuring the tomb of the first Mughal Emperor. Travelers can also explore the ancient Herat Citadel for panoramic urban views or visit the National Museum of Afghanistan to view preserved ancient artifacts.

For natural exploration, visiting Band-e Amir National Park allows travelers to view famous travertine-blue lakes set against stark canyon walls. However, activity choices fluctuate, and access rules occasionally restrict women from entering the park grounds. In the far northeast, the Wakhan Corridor offers paths through isolated Pamir communities and dramatic alpine vistas, while Central Afghanistan features trekking routes through the Shah Foladi wilderness. Due to checkpoints and rough terrain, all rural trekking requires specialized security clearances and a local guide.

Money

The Afghani (AFN) is the currency of Afghanistan, denoted by the symbol "Afs" or "؋" (ISO code: AFN). The current version of the afghani was introduced in 2002, with 1 afghani equal to 1,000 of the previous afghanis.

Banknotes of Afghanistan are issued in denominations of 1-, 2,-, 5-, 10-, 20-, 50-, 100-, 500 and 1,000 afghanis.

Local financial regulations strictly prohibit the use of foreign currencies like US dollars or Pakistani rupees for domestic transactions, requiring all daily retail purchases to be settled exclusively in local afghanis

Carpets

Afghanistan's most famous products are carpets and there are some fine deals to be had, though good haggling is absolutely required to get them. High-value traditional carpets, textiles, and furs require an official export permit or proof of purchase clearance from the Ministry of Information and Culture.

There are carpets described as "Afghan", but also at least two other carpet-weaving traditions. The Baluchi tribes in the south and west weave fine rugs, and the Turkoman tribes in the north do as well; both groups are also found in neighbouring countries.

• Afghan rugs are generally made in city workshops, mainly for the export trade. They are often large; 3 x 4 metres (10 x 12 feet) is common. Most are quite coarsely woven to keep costs down, but others have a fairly fine weave. If you need a big rug for the living room at a moderate price, these are likely to be your best choice. Beware, however, that a large thick (because coarsely woven) carpet may be expensive to transport because it will be quite heavy.
• Baluchi rugs are usually small since nomadic people cannot use large looms; sizes up to 1.5 by 2 metres (4 x 7 feet) are common, but not many beyond that. They are popular with travellers, partly because they are fairly portable. One very common type is a prayer rug, just large enough for one person to kneel facing Mecca. Another is the "nomad's chest of drawers" — a bag, often beautifully decorated, that is a saddlebag when travelling and hangs on the wall of the tent when camped.
• Turkoman rugs, often labelled "Bokhara" in the Western rug trade, come in all sizes and a very broad range of quality. Some are woven by nomads, with the same range of sizes and types as Baluchi rugs. Others are made in city workshops; the best of these are almost as finely woven and almost as expensive as top-grade Persian carpets. One fairly common design is the Hatchli, a cross shape on a large rug.

All three types tend to use geometric patterns in the design, usually with red as the background colour and with repeated elements called "guls" to make the pattern. Generally, these are not as finely woven as carpets from the cities of neighbouring Iran. However, many of them are quite beautiful and their prices are (assuming good haggling) well below those of the top Iranian carpets.

It is fairly common for rugs woven by nomads – such as many Baluchi rugs and some Turkoman – to show minor irregularities. The loom is dismantled for transport and re-assembled at the new camp, so the rug may not turn out perfectly rectangular. Vegetable dyes are often used, and these may vary from batch to batch, so some colour variation (arbrash) occurs and this may be accentuated as the rug fades. To collectors, most such irregularities fall into the "that's not a flaw; it's a feature" category; they are expected and accepted. In fact, a nice arbrash can considerably increase the value of a rug.

Turkoman designs are widely copied; it is common to see "Bokhara" carpets from India or Pakistan, China produces some, and the Afghan carpet designs show heavy Turkoman influence. To collectors, though, the original Turkoman rugs are worth a good deal more. Good Baluchi rugs are also quite valuable in Western countries. Afghan rugs, or lower grade Baluchi and Turkoman rugs, generally are not collectors' items; most foreigners will find the best buys among these. Experts might pay premium prices for the top-grade rugs, but amateurs trying that are very likely to get severely overcharged.

Kilims are flat-woven fabric with no pile. These are nowhere near as tough as carpets and will not survive decades on the floor as a good carpet will. However, some are lovely, and they are generally cheaper than carpets. Smaller items, such as purses, made or decorated with carpet and kilims are common.

Sheepskin coats

Another common product and popular souvenir is the Afghan sheepskin coat. These have the wool on the inside for warmth and the leather on the outside to block wind, rain and snow. They often have lovely embroidery. Three cautions, though.

• The makers use the embroidery to hide flaws in the leather; top-quality coats will have little or no embroidery.
• Australian customs have been known to incinerate these coats on arrival, to protect their large sheep population from diseases (notably anthrax) that poorly tanned Afghan products might carry. They might not be the only country that will do this.
• You may need an export permit for high-quality traditional attire (see Carpets above).

Guns

Guns are very common in Afghanistan and some may be of considerable interest to historians and collectors.

Before the Russian invasion of 1979, most Afghan men carried rifles, but jezails were much the commonest type and single-shot pass rifles second; owning a repeating rifle was a major status symbol. Today most Afghans have automatic weapons – mainly Russian AK-47 or American M16 – so the older guns are readily available for any traveller who wants one.

Guns make rather problematic souvenirs. Importing a firearm anywhere can be difficult and it may be impossible in some places. If you are travelling overland and passing through several countries before you reach home, it is almost certainly not worth the trouble. Also, if you actually fire any Afghan gun, there is a risk that it will blow up in your face.

Other goods

There are also various bits of metalwork – heavily decorated pots, vases and platters, and some quite nice knives.

There are three main types of Afghan bread:

• Naan — Literally "bread". Thin, long and oval shaped, its mainly a white/whole wheat blend. Topped with poppy seeds, sesame seeds, nigella seeds, or some combination of these. Upon request, customers may be able to get all white flour and a helping of oil, which makes it rich and delicious.
• Obi Non — Uzbek-style bread. Shaped like a disc and thicker than naan. Usually made with white flour.
• Lavash — Very thin bread. Similar to the lavash elsewhere. Usually used as plating for meats and stews.

Rice dishes are the "king" of all foods in Afghanistan. The Afghans have certainly taken much time and effort in creating their rice dishes, as they are considered the best part of any meal. Wealthier families will eat one rice dish per day. The Afghan royalty spent much time on rice preparation and invention as evidenced in the sheer number of rice dishes in their cookbooks. Weddings and family gatherings must feature several rice dishes and certainly reputations can be made in the realm of rice preparation.

• Kabuli Pulao (or Kabuli Palaw, Qabili Palaw, Qabili Palau or simply Palau) — An Afghan rice dish consisting of steamed rice mixed with lentils, raisins, carrots, and lamb. It is baked in the oven and topped with fried sliced carrots and raisins. Chopped nuts like pistachios or almonds may be added as well. The meat is covered by the rice or buried in the middle of the dish. It is the most popular dish in Afghanistan, and is considered the national dish.
• Chalao — White rice. Extra long grains such as Basmati is required. First parboiled, then drained, and finally baked in an oven with some oil, butter, and salt. This method creates a fluffy rice with each grain separated, unlike Chinese or Japanese rice. Chalao is served mainly with qormas (korma; stews or casseroles)
• Palao — Cooked the same as chalao, but either meat & stock, qorma, herbs, or a combination are blended in before the baking process. This creates elaborate colors, flavors, and aromas for which some rices are named after. Caramelized sugar is also sometimes used to give the rice a rich brown color.
• Yakhni Palao — Meat & stock added. Creates a brown rice.
• Zamarod Palao — Spinach qorma mixed in before the baking process, hence 'zamarod' or emerald.
• Qorma Palao — Qorm'eh Albokhara wa Dalnakhod mixed in before the baking process
• Bore Palao — Qorm'eh Lawand added. Creates a yellow rice.
• Bonjan-e-Roomi Palao — Qorm'eh Bonjan-e-Roomi (tomato qorma) added at baking process. Creates a red rice.
• Serkah Palao — Similar to yakhni palao, but with vinegar and other spices.
• Shebet Palao — Fresh dill, raisins added at baking process.
• Narenj Palao — A sweet and elaborate rice dish made with saffron, orange peel, pistachios, almonds and chicken.
• Maash Palao — A sweet and sour palao baked with mung beans, apricots, and bulgur (a kind of wheat). Exclusively vegetarian.
• Alou Balou Palao — Sweet rice dish with cherries and chicken.
• Sticky Rices — Boiled medium grain rice cooked with its meat, herbs, and grains. Because the water is not drained, it forms a sticky rice texture. Notable dishes include Mastawa, Kecheri Qoroot, and Shola. When white rice is cooked to a sticky consistency it is called bata, and is usually eaten with a qorma, such as Sabzi (spinach) or Shalgham (turnips). A sweet rice dish called Shir Birenj (literally milk rice) is often served as dessert.

Qorma is a stew or casserole, usually served with chawol. Most qormas are onion-based. Onions are fried, then meat is added, as are a variety of fruits, spices, and vegetables depending on the recipe. Finally water is added and left to simmer. The onion caramelizes and creates a richly colored stew. There are over 100 qormas.

• Qorma Alou-Bokhara wa Dalnakhod — onion based, with sour plums, lentils, and cardamom. Veal or chicken.
• Qorma Nadroo — onion based, with yogurt, lotus roots, cilantro, and coriander. Lamb or veal.
• Qorma Lawand — onion based, with yogurt, turmeric, and cilantro. Chicken, lamb, or beef.
• Qorma Sabzi — sauteed spinach and other greens. Lamb
• Qorma Shalgham — onion based, with turnips, sugar; sweet and sour taste. Lamb.

Pasta is called "khameerbob" in Afghanistan and is often in the shape of dumplings. These native dishes are wildly popular. Due to the time-consuming process of creating the dough for the dumplings, it is rarely served at large gatherings such as weddings, but for more special occasions at home:

• Mantu — A dish of Uzbek origin. Dumplings filled with onion & ground beef. Mantu is steamed and usually topped with a tomato-based sauce and a yogurt or qoroot-based sauce. The yogurt-based topping is usually a mixture of yogurt, sour cream, and garlic. The qoroot based sauce is made of goat cheese and is also mixed with garlic. Sometimes a qoroot and yogurt mixture will be used. The dish is then topped with dried mint.
• Ashak — Kabul dish. Dumplings filled with leeks. Boiled and then drained. Ashak is topped with garlic-mint qoroot or a garlic yogurt sauce and a well seasoned ground meat mixture.
• Afghan kebab — Most often found in restaurants and outdoor vendor stalls. Sometimes they are put into shishas. Families rarely serve homemade kebab in their home due to the need of inaccessible equipment. The most widely used meat is lamb. Recipes differ with every restaurant, but Afghan kebab is usually marinated with a blend of spices, and served with naan, rarely rice. Customers have the option to sprinkle sumac, locally known as ghora, on their kebab. The quality of kebab is solely dependent on the quality of the meat. Pieces of fat from the sheep's tail (jijeq) are usually added with the lamb skewers to add extra flavor.Other popular kebabs include lamb chops, ribs, kofta (ground beef) and chicken; all of which are found in better restaurants.
• Chapli kebab — A specialty of eastern Afghanistan, is a fried hamburger. The original recipe of chapli kebab dictates a half meat (or less), half flour mixture, which renders it lighter in taste, and less expensive.
• Bolani — Made in a very similar way as Mexican Quesadilla.
• Lahndi — Also known as dried meat, a famous winter dish of Pashtun cuisine popular in amonɡst Pashtuns in Afghanistan, mostly regions with dry and cold weather. Consumption of lahndi is common during the winter months.

Desserts and snacks

• Baklava
• Afghan Cake (similar to pound cake sometimes with real fruit or jelly inside)
• Gosh Feel (thin, fried pastry covered in powdered sugar and ground pistachios)
• Fernea (milk and cornstarch very sweet, similar to rice pudding without the rice)
• Mou-rubba (fruit sauce, sugar syrup and fruits, apple, sour cherry, various berries or made with dried fruits "Afghan favorite is the Alu-Bakhara")
• Kulcha (variety of cookies, baked in clay ovens with char-wood)
• Narenge Palau (dried sweet orange peel and green raisins with a variety of nuts mixed with yellow rice glazed with light sugar syrup)

Tea is the cornerstone of hospitality and social life in Afghanistan. Refusing a cup is often seen as a rejection of a host’s goodwill. Green tea (chai-e sabz) is the most ubiquitous drink, usually brewed with cardamom pods and consumed throughout the day without sugar. Black tea (chai-e siah) is also widely available. While tea is generally served bitter alongside dried fruits, nuts, or sugar cubes to sweeten the palate, breakfast tea is often heavily sweetened directly in the pot. On special occasions or in the morning, locals drink sheer chai, a rich milk tea brewed with cardamom, sugar, and occasionally saffron. A highly prized regional specialty is qaymaq chai, a laborious milk tea pink in colour and topped with a dollop of clotted cream.

For cold refreshments, doogh is the country's most popular traditional beverage. This savory, chilled drink is made by blending yogurt, ice water, salt, and dried mint, often with added diced cucumber or carbonated water to create a refreshing yogurt soda. Another uniquely cooling street food-style treat is sheeryakh, a traditional Afghan dense, hand-rolled ice cream heavily flavored with cardamom, rosewater, and cream.

Alcohol is completely illegal and strictly prohibited throughout the country under current law. Tourists cannot purchase or consume alcohol openly, and importing it is a serious legal offence. Consequently, non-alcoholic beers and local energy drinks have become highly popular alternatives in city markets and bazaars.

Tap water is completely unsafe for foreign travelers, meaning visitors must strictly rely on sealed bottled water for drinking and brushing teeth.

During the holy month of Ramadan, public consumption of any food or drink during daylight hours is forbidden and legally enforced.

Accommodation options for foreign travelers are highly limited and strictly regulated by the Ministry of Information and Culture. Independent booking is largely obsolete, as guesthouses and hotels generally require official government clearance letters before checking in foreign guests. In Kabul, international-standard luxury hotels provide high-end amenities, heavy fortified security barriers, and reliable backup generators. Beyond these luxury options, major provincial capitals like Herat, Mazar-i-Sharif, and Jalalabad offer a mix of mid-range, locally run hotels. These mid-tier establishments provide basic comforts, private bathrooms, and on-site dining, though security infrastructure varies wildly.

In rural areas, remote valleys, and along trekking routes like the Wakhan Corridor or Bamiyan, formal hotels do not exist. Travelers must rely on traditional village homestays or rustic chaikhana (tea house) lodgings. These accommodations offer a highly authentic experience but feature minimal infrastructure, consisting of shared floor-mattresses, communal pit latrines, and no running water. Across all tiers of accommodation, infrastructure challenges are frequent. Power outages are a daily occurrence nationwide, making properties with private generators highly preferable. Furthermore, stable Wi-Fi is rare outside of high-end Kabul properties, and hot water is often limited to specific hours of the day.

Everyone contemplating work in Afghanistan should read and understand the travel advice published by their respective governments and in the Stay safe section below.

Prior to the recapture of Afghanistan by the Taliban, many foreigners found well-paid work in Afghanistan as part of the reconstruction efforts, often with the UN or other non-governmental organisations. Most of these jobs were within Kabul. Local wages were very low, especially outside of Kabul.

Afghanistan is a volatile and dangerous country. Non-essential travel is strongly discouraged. Banditry is somewhat of an ancient tradition in many parts of the country, including in the northern areas. Foreigners may be targets for kidnapping.

The Islamic State in Khorasan Province (IS-KP) is an anti-Taliban and Islamic extremist militant group that has an active presence in the country. It has strongly anti-Western and anti-Chinese views far exceeding those of the Taliban, and often targets hotels and other areas frequented by foreigners, though Taliban security operations have greatly reduced the frequency of these attacks in the mid-2020s.

Landmines and other UXO (unexploded ordnance) remain a problem across the country, so plan to stick to well-worn paths, avoid areas marked with red-and-white-painted rocks, and do not touch or move any suspicious-looking item. Hundreds of people are injured or killed every year.

Insects and snakes are also something to be careful of, and the mountainous country has many vicious tiny creatures such as scorpions, spiders, centipedes, and bees.

In some areas, altitude sickness is a significant risk.

Earthquakes are common. Summers are hot and winters cold. Traveling around the country becomes difficult in winter as snow blocks roads; avalanches are a risk factor.

Any homosexual activity is punishable by an assortment of harsh punishments, including death. LGBT travelers should exercise tremendous discretion.

The Taliban have a zero-tolerance attitude towards recreational drugs, including alcohol and tobacco. Possession or trafficking of them will result in arrest and long imprisonment terms.

Be vary careful with anything that could be seen as political activism.

The Taliban’s justice system includes lengthy imprisonment, lashings (including in public) and the death penalty.

There are heightened tensions between Taliban controlled-Afghanistan and Pakistan, including clashes in border areas. Pakistan declared war in 2026. Check the situation before you travel.

Laws regarding women

There are strict laws and guidelines on women, enforced strictly by the Taliban regime when it comes to local women. Foreigners, at least Westerners, may be exempted, but check current practice and dress conservatively.

• Women are legally mandated to fully cover their bodies and faces in public using thick, loose clothing. Women who do not adhere to these specific chador or full-veil requirements are banned from accessing public transport, services, and markets.
• Under the country's strict "Virtue and Vice" legislation, women are forbidden from speaking loudly, singing, reading, or reciting out loud in public spaces. It is also illegal for women to look directly at men to whom they are not related by blood or marriage.
• Women are strictly prohibited from entering recreational public locations, including public parks, gymnasiums, and sports clubs.
• Women are legally restricted from travelling, running daily errands, or entering public transport without a male relative chaperone (mahram). Long-distance transit exceeding 72 kilometres is completely forbidden without a mahram.
• The formal justice system has been replaced by a strict code that gives husbands full authority to inflict physical punishment on their wives, provided it does not result in broken bones. It is a criminal offense for a woman to visit a relative without her husband's prior consent.
• Statutory protections against underage marriage have been dismantled. Under recent family law decrees, if a young girl remains silent when a marriage is arranged for her upon reaching puberty, her silence is legally treated as active consent. Any attempts by women to contest or annul forced childhood marriages must be approved through specialized courts.

Afghanistan has more than its share of health issues, and it is pretty much essential to consult a travel doctor ahead of your trip about vaccinations and health risks. Travellers' diarrhea will afflict most visitors at least occasionally, and other food-related illnesses are moderately common. Respiratory diseases such as tuberculosis are common, and malaria is a risk in many parts of the country. Meningitis, hepatitis, cholera and rabies are major health issues, especially in the countryside with lacking health infrastructure.

Afghanistan is one of the dustiest countries in the world, and you should be prepared to be covered in it and breathing it for most of your stay, even in the major cities. Consider bringing facemasks. Pollution from diesel engines can also make life unpleasant.

Flies are notoriously heinous here, likely due to poor sanitation. Winter brings some relief, but they come back full-strength when spring arrives.

Food should be approached with a discerning eye, as hygiene standards can often be lacking. Hot, freshly cooked food is generally safer. Bottled water is also advised, unless you have your own purification system.

Do not approach any animals, especially dogs and cats and preferably take a rabies shot before going to the country, it's one of the most rabies-affected countries in the world and finding medical attention and medications will be hard – even with the shot you need to get urgent medical treatment if you get a scratch from an infected animal.

Bring any prescription medicine you may need from your home country, and don't count on being able to find it locally. You may also consider carrying pain relievers and anti-diarrheals, as they'll be hard to find outside of major cities.

Squat toilets are the norm, with toilet paper optional and sometimes scarce. Western-style toilets are seen occasionally in newer buildings and some private homes.

Despite all that they have been through since 1979, Afghans in general are welcoming and hospitable to foreign visitors. Hospitality is a cornerstone of Afghan culture, and it is very likely that you'll be treated as a celebrity by the locals.

With the regime change in 2021, a large proportion of the population, especially women, are very afraid of what will be in the future. Those who worked for the government, for foreign organisations, for human rights or for the media, or held any high profile positions may be afraid for their lives. Tread extremely lightly.

Basic etiquette

If invited to an Afghan home, expect to be offered the best of everything there is. You will often be showered with tea, sweets, snacks, and gifts when entering someone's home. Don't refuse any of these as it can leave a bad impression on your hosts. You'll often be encouraged by your hosts to take second helpings ad infinitum. If so, take it as a form of respect as it may leave a good impression on your hosts. Cleaning your plate will invite more to be served, while leaving too much may be a sign you didn't care for it. Aim for leaving just a little, announcing you're full, and heavily praising the food.

Honor and shame, otherwise known as "saving face" in other countries, are very important in Afghan culture. No matter how genuine your intentions may be, avoid criticising people in the open and do not make someone feel uncomfortable with your questioning. Be mindful that your actions will be reflected on your counterparts (e.g. Business partners, family members); doing anything perceived as "shameful" by Afghans will cause others to view them in a negative way. Be mindful of this and behave accordingly.

The pace of life in Afghanistan is quite slow. Building relationships and getting things done require you to demonstrate sincere interest as Afghans try to do things in a measured, careful manner. Losing your temper is seen as disrespectful, and it can quickly make people feel uncomfortable.

As in any other Islamic country, people place a high value on personal privacy. Although Afghanistan may have wonderful photo opportunities, do not photograph or record people without their permission, especially women. Also, taking photographs of anything of strategic importance may be met with suspicion.

Be sensitive to the country's current situation. Many Afghans have endured a lot due to years of conflict and warfare. Offer sympathy and respect when the opportunity arises.

Religious etiquette

• Remember to remove your shoes when entering a religious building.
• Dress modestly and appropriately; not doing so is considered disrespectful.
• If at all possible, try not to schedule meetings during Ramadan. The workday is shortened, and since Muslims fast, they will not be able to offer you tea, which is a sign of hospitality. Meetings are also not scheduled during prayers. Also refer to travelling during Ramadan.
• Mosques are generally off-limits to non-Muslims so it is always better to inquire with someone before entering.

Things to avoid

Politics

• Do not discuss the Taliban — Some support them and others may not dare to criticize them. Any such discussion will put the local in a very awkward situation.
• Be careful when discussing Pakistan — The two countries have had a very hostile relationship, while people from the neighboring regions may have strong ties across the border. As of Apr 2026, the two countries are fighting a war.
• Be careful when discussing the foreign efforts during the former regime — Many Afghans feel that the US military did more harm than good, or betrayed Afghanistan by withdrawing. Any such discussions may also risk being interpreted as criticizing the Taliban regime, see above.

Personal subjects

• Family — Many Afghan people have either been separated from their families, have lost family members to conflict, or fear that they might be put into danger if they're spoken about. As a general rule, don't discuss someone's family unless you know the person well.
• Religion — Afghanistan has some very harsh blasphemy laws. You can very easily elicit strong responses by speaking negatively about religion, especially from an agnostic point of view. Also, don't assume that every Afghan is a hard-line Muslim; secular viewpoints are common. On the other hand, hijabs or burqas are traditional clothing in some regions. Someone's preferred style of dress might not reflect their private views.

Fixed line service is available in major cities (digital in Kabul) and mobile phones in most cities. SIM cards are available and international calls to Europe/US typically cost less than USD0.5/minute. Outside of major cities your options are limited to a satellite phone.

An Afghanistan number should is of the form +93 30 539-0605 where "93" is the country code for Afghanistan, the next two digits are the area code and the remaining 7 digits are the "local" part of the subscriber number that can be called from within that particular area code using abbreviated dialing. You need to dial "0" in front of the geographic area code (of 20, 30, 40, 50 or 60 for fixed lines) from outside that particular area code (but when still within Afghanistan).

Mobile phones

Mobile numbers in Afghanistan must always be dialled with all digits (10 digits, including a "0" prefixing the "70n" within Afghanistan), no matter where they are being called from. The 70n is a mobile prefix, not an "area code" as such, and the third digit (the n part) denotes the original mobile network assigned.

An example mobile number looks like +93 700-202-496.

• Roshan +93 [tel:79 997 1333 79 997 1333]. The most reliable service with the widest coverage. SMS is possible to most countries. SIM cards cost USD5, local calls are Af 5/minute.
• Afghan Wireless Privately owned with 20% ownership by the government. AWCC has the only communications ring around the country offering high speed mobile and data services throughout all provinces. AWCC also offers the highest speed fibre-based connections to the outside world, with roaming to over 300 other operators in 120 countries. Services include Voice, FAX, GPRS and EDGE data services along with WiMAX and dedicated high speed internet service with 45MB links to NYC and 45MB links to Paris. SIM cards cost USD1, local calls are Af 4.99/minute billing in seconds.
• Areeba/MTN +93 [tel:77 222 2777 77 222 2777]. The cheapest cell service, offers the least coverage. SIM cards cost USD3, local calls are Af 5.5/minute.
• Etisalat +93 [tel:78 688 8888 78 688 8888]. A large network provider from the UAE, is the latest GSM network in Afghanistan. It became the first company to begin 3G services in early 2012.

Satellite phones

• Thuraya is the most reliable satellite phone system.

If you exit Afghanistan via a land border, you can take with you maximum US$500 in cash (2025). You will have to i.e. change surplus of US$ on the border to the currency of your destination country, just to do the reverse on the other side of the border.